Ok here are all the details to this thing going on with my car. First so everyone knows, it is a Chevy Lumina z34 1993 with a dual cam overhead v6 in it, 3.4L. Ok now second we have replaced the air filter, air breather, fuel filter, and have checked all the fuel lines, poured fuel injector cleaner in the car and cleaned battery wires, changed the spark plugs and changed valve cover gasket (different problem, there was oil on the spark plugs for a while so ya hehe). The problem with my car is that it starts decent in the morning when i have let it sit overnight, and also starts good if you start it up right after you shut it off, but if you let it sit for like 2 hours or so then you have to give it gas to help it start (feather the pedal). So everyone knows also, the temperature gauge (inside the car) slowly gets over half (has gotten really hot, up to 260 degrees actually, and i thought it was the thermostat but i don't think this will affect how the car starts will it?) Anyways, then drops back down to a quarter, then slowly rises again and repeats, it doesn't seem normal but idk. Another thing is i filled the car with gas (completely full) and the gas tank leaked about half a gallon of gas and then stopped. (The leak came from underneath the car in the middle, where the gas tank is). Any ideas on what is wrong with it yet? Anybody? If you have anymore questions about info of what I have done with the car, noises it makes or anything like that, just type it up here on the page and I will answer back within a couple hours. TY, please everyone help! So in need of help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Please help?!?! (Car Question) Starts ok cold but rough start when warm...?
Well to start your seals are leaking. That is how oil got on your spark plugs. If oil is leaking then you probably have low oil. That can be very bad. You must check your oil every time you get gas. You have been lucky up to this point. If you run the oil reservoir too low you will seize the engine, it will freeze and will not work. You either get a new engine or new car. It is worth the two minutes to check the oil.
Second it sounds like your water or antifreeze is low too. I know everybody is in a hurry these days but you need to take care of the vehicle that takes care of you and keeps you protected.
Terrible things can happen to you from sheer laziness.
Picture breaking down in the wrong part of town all alone in the dark. You will wish you took the time.
Start caring better for your car it will run for more years to come.Please help?!?! (Car Question) Starts ok cold but rough start when warm...?
you say it,s hard to start after it warms up? this is just a guess but have the coil tested. if a coil gets too hot then it can break down and hard to start. you say the tank leaks? maybe it,s sucking air from the leak.Please help?!?! (Car Question) Starts ok cold but rough start when warm...?
if a car gets too hot it is harder to start until it cools alittle bit then should start fine. you do need to find out where the gas leak is and repair it im sure its not helping the situation at all.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
How can i get my engine to start?
i have a 94 nissan altima GXE n i cant get it to start...i just changed brand new spark plugs,wires and distributor...the only way i can get it on is pumping the gas a couple times. then i turn it off and let sit there for few mins and then try to turn it back on again i wont do it until i pump the gas again. what could that be, if u have any idea pls let me know... thanksHow can i get my engine to start?
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starterHow can i get my engine to start?
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.How can i get my engine to start?
get your battery checked.How can i get my engine to start?
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?How can i get my engine to start?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starterHow can i get my engine to start?
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.How can i get my engine to start?
get your battery checked.How can i get my engine to start?
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?How can i get my engine to start?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
I need help with my 1988 Milano Verde!?
I just received a 1988 Milano Verde from my Uncle as a gift. I have recently changed the spark plugs, put in a new battery, and the car is in almost new condition. It looks immaculate, I will put up pictures as soon as I get a digital camera. But I am having problems ever since my dad and I took off the distributor cap and rotor. We put the cap and rotor back on and ever since, I can start the car but it stops running no more than 2 seconds together. If anyone has any advice as what to look for or if you had the same problem, please tell me what was wrong with your car and how you fixed it.
Also, I am in need of a new clutch and I would like to have an official service and repair manual. SO if you know of any websites that I can order those from, please, feel free to throw in your two cents. Thank you in advance to everyone that offers up help.
I received the car, this past Labor Day. My dad took it out after we towed it home, Minnesota to Wisconsin. He took it out for maybe 10 minutes at a time, twice. He drove it hard and fast. When he came back from his second Speed Racer stinge the car was very hot. So we put it in the garage and left it alone. Then the next day my dad brought home some coolant, and power steering fluid(since it was almost completely out) and he showed me the distributor cap and rotor by taking it apart but when we put it back together we didn't attempt to start it since we didn't have a battery that would work without jumper cables. Today I bought a battery, installed it correctly, and then we put in new spark plugs. The plug wires did Not get crossed, they are number 1 through 6. But the wires are in poor condition and I hope to replace them soon. I am planning on replacing the cap and rotor tomorrow. I just don't get how the car ran fine a few days ago and then we took apart the cap and rotor and then next time we try to start it it starts and dies with in 2 secondsI need help with my 1988 Milano Verde!?
First, congratulations! One of the best driving cars of all time! Before you start anything CLEAN THE GROUNDS! That will save you plenty of headache in the future. Then, after cleaning the grounds, rewire the grounds from for the tail lights. The starting and dying is because it is running off of the cold start injector. You need to check the fuel relay (black box on the passenger side firewall with two plugs connecting on the bottom). If you pull the black cover off of the AFM (air fuel meter) and move the arm with the ignition on you should hear the relay click and you should also hear the fuel pump come on. At the very least you should hear the fuel pump. Usually you will also see the the return line from the fuel regulator jump a bit because of the fuel going through. If you do not have either of those that means you are not getting fuel and need a new relay which is fairly common and most owners of these cars will keep spares. Since the car is running I can assume you are getting proper spark so check the relay first. I have also had a bad ground in my ECU but that caused the same problem, but the relay is usually the cause. For the clutch you can try Centerline Alfa (Centerlinealfa.com) or International Auto Parts (international-auto.com). They should have your relay too. Another good resource is Alfabb.com. There are some very knowledgeable members on there and it is free. Most of the time you will get timely responses which makes it a powerful tool. If you are not good with a wrench you soon will be. These cars need attention regularly, but they reward you for it. You can also contact me directly and I will help where I can. I have more than enough Alfa experience to see you through most issues. Hope this helped.
I am Alfaverde88 on AlfaBB.com
Also, I am in need of a new clutch and I would like to have an official service and repair manual. SO if you know of any websites that I can order those from, please, feel free to throw in your two cents. Thank you in advance to everyone that offers up help.
I received the car, this past Labor Day. My dad took it out after we towed it home, Minnesota to Wisconsin. He took it out for maybe 10 minutes at a time, twice. He drove it hard and fast. When he came back from his second Speed Racer stinge the car was very hot. So we put it in the garage and left it alone. Then the next day my dad brought home some coolant, and power steering fluid(since it was almost completely out) and he showed me the distributor cap and rotor by taking it apart but when we put it back together we didn't attempt to start it since we didn't have a battery that would work without jumper cables. Today I bought a battery, installed it correctly, and then we put in new spark plugs. The plug wires did Not get crossed, they are number 1 through 6. But the wires are in poor condition and I hope to replace them soon. I am planning on replacing the cap and rotor tomorrow. I just don't get how the car ran fine a few days ago and then we took apart the cap and rotor and then next time we try to start it it starts and dies with in 2 secondsI need help with my 1988 Milano Verde!?
First, congratulations! One of the best driving cars of all time! Before you start anything CLEAN THE GROUNDS! That will save you plenty of headache in the future. Then, after cleaning the grounds, rewire the grounds from for the tail lights. The starting and dying is because it is running off of the cold start injector. You need to check the fuel relay (black box on the passenger side firewall with two plugs connecting on the bottom). If you pull the black cover off of the AFM (air fuel meter) and move the arm with the ignition on you should hear the relay click and you should also hear the fuel pump come on. At the very least you should hear the fuel pump. Usually you will also see the the return line from the fuel regulator jump a bit because of the fuel going through. If you do not have either of those that means you are not getting fuel and need a new relay which is fairly common and most owners of these cars will keep spares. Since the car is running I can assume you are getting proper spark so check the relay first. I have also had a bad ground in my ECU but that caused the same problem, but the relay is usually the cause. For the clutch you can try Centerline Alfa (Centerlinealfa.com) or International Auto Parts (international-auto.com). They should have your relay too. Another good resource is Alfabb.com. There are some very knowledgeable members on there and it is free. Most of the time you will get timely responses which makes it a powerful tool. If you are not good with a wrench you soon will be. These cars need attention regularly, but they reward you for it. You can also contact me directly and I will help where I can. I have more than enough Alfa experience to see you through most issues. Hope this helped.
I am Alfaverde88 on AlfaBB.com
93 suzuki gsx600f katana?
I bought a 93 suzuki gsx600f katana not running. I changed the spark plugs, sp wires, coils, and cleaned the carbs. and it will start but when I got it the gas tank wasnt connected and I have no idea how that is supposed to be hooked up?93 suzuki gsx600f katana?
This won't be your only puzzle on the bike, just get you a shop manual and it will show you how to hook it up and help with the next 3 problems you will have.
I guarantee it.
This won't be your only puzzle on the bike, just get you a shop manual and it will show you how to hook it up and help with the next 3 problems you will have.
I guarantee it.
Can this hose thing cause a vacuum leak?
ok i own a saturn sl1, like the one in the video im goin to show you, now i was messing with it today cuz it has been running wierd and everybody said it sounds like a bad vacuum leak,
things that doin wierd stuff on my car
when start, goes up to 3000 rpm and does down slow,
when in drive or %26quot;r%26quot; while your foot is on the brake it shacks, idles lowish, and sometimes just acts wierd, also check engine light is on and flash's alot,
i replaced the oxygen senor, the fuel pump and filter, spark plugs with spark plug wires, i am changing out the coil friday,
now here is my question, i think!!
ok on this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYa8rcHeN3A is a guy wth a saturn like myne, ok see from 0:15 to 0:20 on the video how he puts his hand on that black thing and follows it up, now were that black hose it hooked on the throttle body, and the end of the black hose, on 0:20 that end was melted and i thin that is a vacuum leak right? the black end peace is melted and there is a opening, so im guessing that a vacuum leak? thank you guysCan this hose thing cause a vacuum leak?
Hi
What you have is an intake air leak, and it is bypassing the airflow meter and causing the problems you are having.
Very best regards
GeordieCan this hose thing cause a vacuum leak?
yes we know all that stuff and another thing that,s a good way to catch the engine on fire if the engine is hot too. any hose that,s drawing vacuum there could be a vacuum leak if the hose or metal tube has a leak in it.training a boy for a beauty salon
things that doin wierd stuff on my car
when start, goes up to 3000 rpm and does down slow,
when in drive or %26quot;r%26quot; while your foot is on the brake it shacks, idles lowish, and sometimes just acts wierd, also check engine light is on and flash's alot,
i replaced the oxygen senor, the fuel pump and filter, spark plugs with spark plug wires, i am changing out the coil friday,
now here is my question, i think!!
ok on this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYa8rcHeN3A is a guy wth a saturn like myne, ok see from 0:15 to 0:20 on the video how he puts his hand on that black thing and follows it up, now were that black hose it hooked on the throttle body, and the end of the black hose, on 0:20 that end was melted and i thin that is a vacuum leak right? the black end peace is melted and there is a opening, so im guessing that a vacuum leak? thank you guysCan this hose thing cause a vacuum leak?
Hi
What you have is an intake air leak, and it is bypassing the airflow meter and causing the problems you are having.
Very best regards
GeordieCan this hose thing cause a vacuum leak?
yes we know all that stuff and another thing that,s a good way to catch the engine on fire if the engine is hot too. any hose that,s drawing vacuum there could be a vacuum leak if the hose or metal tube has a leak in it.
How do you know if your map sensor is bad?
I have a 19999 Ford Mustang v6. the problem is when i go to press on the gas the car does not take off like it should it just goes slow then it starts speeding up. but when its parked i can press on the gas and it revs up good only when your driving it has trouble. what can the problem be? I have changed the wires, spark plugs, tps sensor, pcv valve, mass air flow sensor, Fuel filter, transmission filter. Need some help thinking it could be the map sensor or my Fuel pump. whatever help you all can give me would help.How do you know if your map sensor is bad?
I don't think your car has a MAP sensor. There are two ways to measure air into the engine. One is done with mass air meter (maf) and the other with a manifold absolute pressure sensor (map). Fords use a MAF..
There is a fuel rail pressure sensor on your fuel rail perhaps that is what you think is the map. This sensor keeps the rail pressure at 45 psi above the manifold pressure. So you see a vacuum line on this sensor, but it is measuring fuel pressure relative to manifold pressure.
Can you check the fuel pressure? There should be a fitting on the rail that looks like a tire valve. connect a press sure gage to it (some autoparts stores will loan them) and make sure it stays above 45 psi all the time.
Your fuel pump might be getting weak. I had a Ford Windstar did the same thing and had to put a fuel pump in it.How do you know if your map sensor is bad?
You can generally tell when your O2 sensor is bad with a diagnostic scan. Your problem however seems to be with either fuel delivery, ignition, or air intake. Unless you just don't know what a slipping transmission feels like. Do a fuel system pressure test to make sure its within specs. Im not familiar with the V6 mustang, Im going to assume it has a coil pack ignition. Check it or check them all(whichever you have). Make sure your air filter isn't clogged up.
I don't think your car has a MAP sensor. There are two ways to measure air into the engine. One is done with mass air meter (maf) and the other with a manifold absolute pressure sensor (map). Fords use a MAF..
There is a fuel rail pressure sensor on your fuel rail perhaps that is what you think is the map. This sensor keeps the rail pressure at 45 psi above the manifold pressure. So you see a vacuum line on this sensor, but it is measuring fuel pressure relative to manifold pressure.
Can you check the fuel pressure? There should be a fitting on the rail that looks like a tire valve. connect a press sure gage to it (some autoparts stores will loan them) and make sure it stays above 45 psi all the time.
Your fuel pump might be getting weak. I had a Ford Windstar did the same thing and had to put a fuel pump in it.How do you know if your map sensor is bad?
You can generally tell when your O2 sensor is bad with a diagnostic scan. Your problem however seems to be with either fuel delivery, ignition, or air intake. Unless you just don't know what a slipping transmission feels like. Do a fuel system pressure test to make sure its within specs. Im not familiar with the V6 mustang, Im going to assume it has a coil pack ignition. Check it or check them all(whichever you have). Make sure your air filter isn't clogged up.
No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
I have a 98' Grand Am GT 3.1L V6 with 88k miles. As of this afternoon, the engine turns over but will not start. The engine is getting gas but no spark at any of the three coils. I don't think all three coils would go bad at the same time so I suspect the Ignition Control Module or a Camshaft Position Sensor may be bad.
Is there anyway I can test the ICM or CPS with a meter? (Called Autozone and they can't test it. The Chilton book has no information about testing the ICM or CPS, only details how to take out and replace).
The car had a full maintainence (new plugs, new wires, fluids changed, new filters all around) less than 1000 miles ago and was running great up until it wouldn't start this afternoon.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you might want to check the distributor cap, and the rotor inside it. that can be the cause of the problem, and it's an easy fix too. since it's getting gas, i don't think it has anything to do with then fuel pump, lines or filter. check the ecu to see if there's any code lights on it. sometimes ecu's don't set the check engine light off for certain codes. also, if the timing is off, the might not run either. anyways, hope this helps, and good luck!No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
If you just had a full tune up less than 1000 miles ago, bring it to the place that performed the tune up. It is possible they could have used incorrect spark plugs and wires.
But no, there is no way to use a meter to check your IPM or CPS. You can test individual sensors but it is a royal pain in the you know what. My guess is that you need a new coil pack for the three cylinders that are not firing or a crank sensor.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
Ingition control module sounds good.But it all starts with the ECM it sends power to the ignition module.Also check for blown fuses esp the ecm fuse.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you need a schematic for your wiring. is there a fusible link in the system? the ignition module and cam or crank sensor are good ideas but if you have it scanned it should have a code set. I'm not sure about your model but some GM's you can jump the diagnostic connector and get the codes with the check engine light. check the advance auto or auto zone sites for instructions for that.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
CHECK ALL FUSES THEN HAVE IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT LOCAL PARTS STORE ,ALSO CHECK CRANK SENSOR,CAM SENSOR,CAN BE COMPUTERNo spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
replace suspected coils.
Is there anyway I can test the ICM or CPS with a meter? (Called Autozone and they can't test it. The Chilton book has no information about testing the ICM or CPS, only details how to take out and replace).
The car had a full maintainence (new plugs, new wires, fluids changed, new filters all around) less than 1000 miles ago and was running great up until it wouldn't start this afternoon.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you might want to check the distributor cap, and the rotor inside it. that can be the cause of the problem, and it's an easy fix too. since it's getting gas, i don't think it has anything to do with then fuel pump, lines or filter. check the ecu to see if there's any code lights on it. sometimes ecu's don't set the check engine light off for certain codes. also, if the timing is off, the might not run either. anyways, hope this helps, and good luck!No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
If you just had a full tune up less than 1000 miles ago, bring it to the place that performed the tune up. It is possible they could have used incorrect spark plugs and wires.
But no, there is no way to use a meter to check your IPM or CPS. You can test individual sensors but it is a royal pain in the you know what. My guess is that you need a new coil pack for the three cylinders that are not firing or a crank sensor.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
Ingition control module sounds good.But it all starts with the ECM it sends power to the ignition module.Also check for blown fuses esp the ecm fuse.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
you need a schematic for your wiring. is there a fusible link in the system? the ignition module and cam or crank sensor are good ideas but if you have it scanned it should have a code set. I'm not sure about your model but some GM's you can jump the diagnostic connector and get the codes with the check engine light. check the advance auto or auto zone sites for instructions for that.No spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
CHECK ALL FUSES THEN HAVE IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT LOCAL PARTS STORE ,ALSO CHECK CRANK SENSOR,CAM SENSOR,CAN BE COMPUTERNo spark at all three coils, is it a bad Ignition Control Module?
replace suspected coils.
How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
I have a 1999 chevy malibu with 3.1 litre
I changed the head gasket now im ready to crank it up, I just dont know if i should have put it in TDC and check timing, I know i dont have to if i dont have a distributor, but how can I tell exactly?
It has spark plug wiresHow can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Simply look where the spark plugs go from the spark plugs! In your case the plug wires enter a common ignition coil with six terminals. You have what is known as a distributor-less engine. %26quot;Slap the wires on the plugs and fire it up.
There's no cam to time because it's still in the block.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
99 malibu does not have a distributor, it has an electric ignition coil.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Open the hood and look at the top of the engine. If you see an air cleaner on top of a carburetor, then you have a distributor. If instead, you see a large metal looking device and no air cleaner on top, it has a fuel injection system.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Did you take a distributor off the car when you changed the head gasket?
I changed the head gasket now im ready to crank it up, I just dont know if i should have put it in TDC and check timing, I know i dont have to if i dont have a distributor, but how can I tell exactly?
It has spark plug wiresHow can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Simply look where the spark plugs go from the spark plugs! In your case the plug wires enter a common ignition coil with six terminals. You have what is known as a distributor-less engine. %26quot;Slap the wires on the plugs and fire it up.
There's no cam to time because it's still in the block.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
99 malibu does not have a distributor, it has an electric ignition coil.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Open the hood and look at the top of the engine. If you see an air cleaner on top of a carburetor, then you have a distributor. If instead, you see a large metal looking device and no air cleaner on top, it has a fuel injection system.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Did you take a distributor off the car when you changed the head gasket?
Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
My car started running funny about a week ago, and my check engine light came on around the same time. I brought my car in to a shop and they said there was an oil leak going into the spark plugs, which damaged the wires and plugs. To replace the plugs, wires and valve gasket they want to charge me $365!!! I had my egnition wires and plugs changed 3 months ago - and had an oil change one month ago. How could this happen and how do I know if the charges are legit? I feel that I am being taken advantage of because I am young and I am a woman. I cant afford to do this anymore.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
Well, the valve cover gasket does not leak oil into the cylinder, so it would not be the cause of your problem. If you foul out a plug, it can effect the plug wire and necessitate the replacement of it, but that should not require you to do all the wires. I don't think they have diagnosed your problem correctly and would suggest you take it somewhere else.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
Go to a reliable motor workshop and you can never be wrong.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
what kind of car?
mileage?
did you go back to the same garage?Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
This is kind of a long shot. But I have a feeling you have a blown head gasket. You will through good money after bad and you still won`t have a running car. You might think about trading it in before it dosn`t run at all. Best wishes.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
That seems a little steep for the parts and labor. But it's according to what kind of car you drive. You may want to get a 2nd and 3rd opinion ( other garages). Good luck.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
NO, these guys ripped you off in the worste way. You may have water in the gas. Does the car smoke? Is it losing oil? Other than running bad, is there anything else wrong like losing oil or losing coolant? It is possible that you've got bad rings and it's burning oil and fouling the plugs. Just depends on the car and engine condition. If there is nothing wrong like burning oil or burning coolant, I would put a bottle of Heat in the gas tank. I would also find a different repair shop. I would consider taking this shop to small claims court if you find the charges were fraudulant. Good luck.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
Depends on what type vehicle you drive.
I had an Isuzu Trooper come in my shop showing a cylinder misfire (check engine light). Started with the gasket/plug route which wasn't real cheap, but not $365 either. It wound up being a casting flaw in the head where coolant had eroded the plug tube allowing oil to fill plug socket! Head was trashed, cost owner around $1200!
Kif your wires are damaged, you have no choice but to replace. The leak has to be repaired to avoid the problem re-curring. $365 sounds like a %26quot;dealer price%26quot;. Find a reputable independent shop, it may or may not be a bit cheaper.
Well, the valve cover gasket does not leak oil into the cylinder, so it would not be the cause of your problem. If you foul out a plug, it can effect the plug wire and necessitate the replacement of it, but that should not require you to do all the wires. I don't think they have diagnosed your problem correctly and would suggest you take it somewhere else.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
Go to a reliable motor workshop and you can never be wrong.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
what kind of car?
mileage?
did you go back to the same garage?Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
This is kind of a long shot. But I have a feeling you have a blown head gasket. You will through good money after bad and you still won`t have a running car. You might think about trading it in before it dosn`t run at all. Best wishes.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
That seems a little steep for the parts and labor. But it's according to what kind of car you drive. You may want to get a 2nd and 3rd opinion ( other garages). Good luck.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
NO, these guys ripped you off in the worste way. You may have water in the gas. Does the car smoke? Is it losing oil? Other than running bad, is there anything else wrong like losing oil or losing coolant? It is possible that you've got bad rings and it's burning oil and fouling the plugs. Just depends on the car and engine condition. If there is nothing wrong like burning oil or burning coolant, I would put a bottle of Heat in the gas tank. I would also find a different repair shop. I would consider taking this shop to small claims court if you find the charges were fraudulant. Good luck.Do you know anything about cars? HELP!?
Depends on what type vehicle you drive.
I had an Isuzu Trooper come in my shop showing a cylinder misfire (check engine light). Started with the gasket/plug route which wasn't real cheap, but not $365 either. It wound up being a casting flaw in the head where coolant had eroded the plug tube allowing oil to fill plug socket! Head was trashed, cost owner around $1200!
Kif your wires are damaged, you have no choice but to replace. The leak has to be repaired to avoid the problem re-curring. $365 sounds like a %26quot;dealer price%26quot;. Find a reputable independent shop, it may or may not be a bit cheaper.
Ford Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
Does anybody knows how to troubleshoot the distributor cap on a ford explorer? I changed the spark plugs and wires twice and my truck still rattles. Your help will be appreciated
Thank YouFord Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
No distributor cap on this one. When does the rattle happen? When first started cold for a second or two, or all of the time even at idle? Or only while accelerating? Could be detonation caused by carbon buildup, bad MAF, or if rattling all of the time, timing chain tensioners. More info please.Ford Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
try an octane booster... could be bad or low grade gasFord Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
Should be electronic ignition . . . no distributor %26quot;cap.%26quot; You may want to try an engine compression test. Also consider a fuel filter and air filter change.Ford Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
I agree 100% with yugie...need more info... plus what KIND of engine? I figure it's a 4.0 but they had 2 4.0s in 1998, a OHV and a SOHC version.. The SOHC was known for having timing chain rattles espcially at 3,000 RPM and idle if I remember making you think ignition.What comes in a duvet set brown hair
Thank YouFord Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
No distributor cap on this one. When does the rattle happen? When first started cold for a second or two, or all of the time even at idle? Or only while accelerating? Could be detonation caused by carbon buildup, bad MAF, or if rattling all of the time, timing chain tensioners. More info please.Ford Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
try an octane booster... could be bad or low grade gasFord Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
Should be electronic ignition . . . no distributor %26quot;cap.%26quot; You may want to try an engine compression test. Also consider a fuel filter and air filter change.Ford Explorer %26039;98 Distributor Cap?
I agree 100% with yugie...need more info... plus what KIND of engine? I figure it's a 4.0 but they had 2 4.0s in 1998, a OHV and a SOHC version.. The SOHC was known for having timing chain rattles espcially at 3,000 RPM and idle if I remember making you think ignition.
Hey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
ok i have a 1990 Chevy Caprice
4.3 V6
i think the transmission is a 700r4
flowmaster 50 series exhaust
now from what i hear 4.3. v6 is sort of like a chevy 350 small block just missing 2 more cylinders
also this car flys i believe it will beat a v8 305 %26amp; some stock 350's
i bought it from a police officer it use to be a former police detective or service car idk..but it was driven by a local law enforcement agency in Winston Salem,NC i went up to charltote %26amp; bought it like 4 months ago it run's like a champ %26amp; charm..please tell me also what can i do to increase my hp..im thinking about changing the spark plugs wire's etc etc any ideas thanksHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
google kelly blue book and see what it says. that is what deals use.Hey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
HP ratings would vary as there are several different 4.3 V6 engines that GM made.
I've seen ratings as low as 130, and as high as 197.
As for your claim of beating a 305, that's possible, the 305 stock is a dog, but, beating a 350 V8 i call BS on, simply because your impala is one very heavy car, and the 4.3 is an economy engine at best, built for gas mileage not speed or power...
I had that same engine in a '90 Celebrity, which was considerable lighter in weight then an Impala, and I got spanked more than once by a 350... If you beat one, then you had the wind at your back and were rolling down hill...
as for a performance upgrade then dump the V6 and go with an LS1 engine... You can get a bone yard LS1, the transmission, the wiring, the computer, and still pay less than 2 grand...
Drop that engine and transmission into the impala, and you can smoke just about anything, and still get mid 20's in gas mileage.
I've done this swap myself, and it was by far the best bang for the buck power upgrade I have ever done, to any car I've owned.
It was also a cool looking sleeper.. They never knew what hit them until was already gone...
%26quot;...damn some people slow lol%26quot;
yup that's what i said the last time someone tried to race me with a V6... LOL!Hey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
it makes exactly 197.2743 hp at sea levelHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
uummm I dont know how to break it to ya but the 6 aint gonna beat an 8.
as for more horsepower ...add 2 more cylindersHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
Over 9000.
4.3 V6
i think the transmission is a 700r4
flowmaster 50 series exhaust
now from what i hear 4.3. v6 is sort of like a chevy 350 small block just missing 2 more cylinders
also this car flys i believe it will beat a v8 305 %26amp; some stock 350's
i bought it from a police officer it use to be a former police detective or service car idk..but it was driven by a local law enforcement agency in Winston Salem,NC i went up to charltote %26amp; bought it like 4 months ago it run's like a champ %26amp; charm..please tell me also what can i do to increase my hp..im thinking about changing the spark plugs wire's etc etc any ideas thanksHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
google kelly blue book and see what it says. that is what deals use.Hey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
HP ratings would vary as there are several different 4.3 V6 engines that GM made.
I've seen ratings as low as 130, and as high as 197.
As for your claim of beating a 305, that's possible, the 305 stock is a dog, but, beating a 350 V8 i call BS on, simply because your impala is one very heavy car, and the 4.3 is an economy engine at best, built for gas mileage not speed or power...
I had that same engine in a '90 Celebrity, which was considerable lighter in weight then an Impala, and I got spanked more than once by a 350... If you beat one, then you had the wind at your back and were rolling down hill...
as for a performance upgrade then dump the V6 and go with an LS1 engine... You can get a bone yard LS1, the transmission, the wiring, the computer, and still pay less than 2 grand...
Drop that engine and transmission into the impala, and you can smoke just about anything, and still get mid 20's in gas mileage.
I've done this swap myself, and it was by far the best bang for the buck power upgrade I have ever done, to any car I've owned.
It was also a cool looking sleeper.. They never knew what hit them until was already gone...
%26quot;...damn some people slow lol%26quot;
yup that's what i said the last time someone tried to race me with a V6... LOL!Hey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
it makes exactly 197.2743 hp at sea levelHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
uummm I dont know how to break it to ya but the 6 aint gonna beat an 8.
as for more horsepower ...add 2 more cylindersHey can any1 real good about cars tell me how much hp my car has ???..plz thanks?
Over 9000.
VW n/b trouble codes?
after got misfire code ,I changed spark plugs and wire set and now I get new codes:
17633 P1225
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17634 P1226
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17635 P1227
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17636 P1228
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17908 P1500
Fuel Pump Relay Circ. Electrical Malfunction
what should I do now and how to fix this problem ? anyone has experience with this please show me how.
thanks a lotVW n/b trouble codes?
Replace your Fuel Pump relay. These are intermitent DTC's caused by the relay.
17633 P1225
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17634 P1226
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17635 P1227
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17636 P1228
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17908 P1500
Fuel Pump Relay Circ. Electrical Malfunction
what should I do now and how to fix this problem ? anyone has experience with this please show me how.
thanks a lotVW n/b trouble codes?
Replace your Fuel Pump relay. These are intermitent DTC's caused by the relay.
I have a 1992 Chevy 3.1 L. It has 120,000 miles on it. It runs strong! How do i keep it up?
I got it 6 months ago. since then i have changed the wires and spark plugs and the coils. What are some things I can do to improve the performance?I have a 1992 Chevy 3.1 L. It has 120,000 miles on it. It runs strong! How do i keep it up?
Run some synthetic oil in it or do your own mix of synthetic and conventional oils. I do the two quarts pure synthetic, (either Meijer or WalMart brand oil) and three to three and 1/2 quarts conventional and change it once a year or more oftne if the oil looks black/dirty.
Flush out your cooling system every two to three years and use distilled water mixed with antifreeze as this water will not plug up the radiator with mineral deposits like tap water.
Use some STP fuel additive in the winter months to keep the moisture in the fuel suspended.
Change you air filter every two years and inspect it once a year and knock out the bugs and dirt.
Clean the throttle body every two years to keep the sludge from building up in the throat.
Drain and fill your powersteering fluid every two years. This reduces the amount of metal in the fluid to keep the rack and pump in good working order and the seals as well.
Inspect/clean your brakes every year or two and make sure they are not worn beyond spec's and the pads/shoes are not dragging on the rotors or drums. Also, bleed your brakes every two years.
If there are any grease fittings on the steering linkage make sure you lube these every six months minimum.
Drain and fill your transmission every two years and use an aftermarket automatic transmission anit-wear additive like the Slick 50 brand stuff or the blue stuff they sell at AutoZone. This reduces the amount of metal suspended in the fluid and the anti-wear additives work with the fluid to reduce wear and tear inside the tranny.
Good Luck!!
Run some synthetic oil in it or do your own mix of synthetic and conventional oils. I do the two quarts pure synthetic, (either Meijer or WalMart brand oil) and three to three and 1/2 quarts conventional and change it once a year or more oftne if the oil looks black/dirty.
Flush out your cooling system every two to three years and use distilled water mixed with antifreeze as this water will not plug up the radiator with mineral deposits like tap water.
Use some STP fuel additive in the winter months to keep the moisture in the fuel suspended.
Change you air filter every two years and inspect it once a year and knock out the bugs and dirt.
Clean the throttle body every two years to keep the sludge from building up in the throat.
Drain and fill your powersteering fluid every two years. This reduces the amount of metal in the fluid to keep the rack and pump in good working order and the seals as well.
Inspect/clean your brakes every year or two and make sure they are not worn beyond spec's and the pads/shoes are not dragging on the rotors or drums. Also, bleed your brakes every two years.
If there are any grease fittings on the steering linkage make sure you lube these every six months minimum.
Drain and fill your transmission every two years and use an aftermarket automatic transmission anit-wear additive like the Slick 50 brand stuff or the blue stuff they sell at AutoZone. This reduces the amount of metal suspended in the fluid and the anti-wear additives work with the fluid to reduce wear and tear inside the tranny.
Good Luck!!
How much does it cost for..............?
How much does it cost to get a oil change and oil filter change and one tune up consisting of changing whatever is aplicable in you car like spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap distibutor rotor air filter and fuel filterHow much does it cost for..............?
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. %26quot; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive%26quot;
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.How much does it cost for..............?
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.How much does it cost for..............?
id say between 100-125
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. %26quot; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive%26quot;
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.How much does it cost for..............?
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.How much does it cost for..............?
id say between 100-125
2000 Plymouth Neon idles at low RPMs in warm weather and feels like its going to stall. Why?
2000 Plymouth Neon. Just had it in this shop for this on-going problem, but nothing seems to fix it. When it's warm outside and the car is warmed up, in drive and in idle, the RPMs (which normally are at 800 or so when the car is cold or the weather is cold) drops down to 590-610 and the car begins to shake, but not stall.
I can make this go away by giving it gas, putting the transmission in neutral, or in park.
The car drives well. It just recently had spark plugs and wires changed, motor and transaxle mounts replaced, oil change, etc. etc.
It feels like the car is running too lean, but I can't figure out why this is only happening while at idle in drive and only on warm days.
Any ideas what this is and how to fix it?2000 Plymouth Neon idles at low RPMs in warm weather and feels like its going to stall. Why?
try cleaning the IAC valve
cost: freespiritual and life advice migrating existing portal
I can make this go away by giving it gas, putting the transmission in neutral, or in park.
The car drives well. It just recently had spark plugs and wires changed, motor and transaxle mounts replaced, oil change, etc. etc.
It feels like the car is running too lean, but I can't figure out why this is only happening while at idle in drive and only on warm days.
Any ideas what this is and how to fix it?2000 Plymouth Neon idles at low RPMs in warm weather and feels like its going to stall. Why?
try cleaning the IAC valve
cost: free
2000 plymouth breeze engine and transmission life span?
98.974 miles.2.4 dual overhead camshaft 16 valves engine.i added the stp fuel injector cleaner super concetrated every oil change keeping the injectors and others clean.i changes my spark plugs and wires every 3yrs or less.new timing belt and water pump installed at 97.300 miles before 99.000 miles.tranny flush every 30.000 miles almost that time to get it done at 104.000 miles.i change oil and oil filter every 3000 miles or 3 months or less. i also added stp oil treatment to keep everything in the engine lubricated.i use valvoline max life synthetic blend or full synthetic.and i change air filter every other oil change.i had this car since 2002.it was preowned.milage was 38.982.only thing it needs is an oil change.i kept this car maintained for years.no engine problems,no oil smoke blowing out.only problem i had was the tranny.new solenoid pack and input/output speed sensors installed.tansmission is still running fine.after all the years i kept my 2000 plymouth breeze maintained.how long does the engine and transmission last?hope this all help.thanks everyone.2000 plymouth breeze engine and transmission life span?
If you continue to maintain it like this and don't do any hard driving, this engine and transmission should have no problem going another 100,000 miles. You have stayed on top of the major changes and that檚 the 1 preventative maintenance that you can do. One thing you will want to do as you did not mention it, is to replace the fuel filter, and have the coolant flushed every 2 years. Keep it up and you should get some long and quality service out of the car.
If you continue to maintain it like this and don't do any hard driving, this engine and transmission should have no problem going another 100,000 miles. You have stayed on top of the major changes and that檚 the 1 preventative maintenance that you can do. One thing you will want to do as you did not mention it, is to replace the fuel filter, and have the coolant flushed every 2 years. Keep it up and you should get some long and quality service out of the car.
What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
Car already has 123k km, start idling a bit rough and gas mileage is not at best..... I want to check and change plugs. Any recommendations what spark plugs good for this type of car?
How multi-electrodes plug works (Bosch Platinum+2 / Platinum+4) are they good with my engine ?
Should I replace ignition wire set as well? I know that wires aren't easy to check and diagnose.
Thank you for your input.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
Stick with the factory AC DELCO iridium tipped spark plugs. I have seen numerous issues with aftermarket plugs, Bosch included. AC Delco warranties their plugs for 100k, and their wires. They are designed specifically FOR YOUR VEHICLE, whereas aftermarket plugs (no matter how nifty the name or promises) are designed to be used across multiple platforms.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
Your original equipment spark plugs lasted for 123,000 kms. - that is excellent. Put another set of those in. I can tell you now that the aftermarket plugs won't last any longer.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
The Bosch +2 or +4 do not seen to do well in any application other than Inboard boats that have found to this day, the best option for your application would be the OE AC Delco plugs (that are platinum as well), the only other thing that I would use is a compatible NGK Platinum plug.
How multi-electrodes plug works (Bosch Platinum+2 / Platinum+4) are they good with my engine ?
Should I replace ignition wire set as well? I know that wires aren't easy to check and diagnose.
Thank you for your input.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
Stick with the factory AC DELCO iridium tipped spark plugs. I have seen numerous issues with aftermarket plugs, Bosch included. AC Delco warranties their plugs for 100k, and their wires. They are designed specifically FOR YOUR VEHICLE, whereas aftermarket plugs (no matter how nifty the name or promises) are designed to be used across multiple platforms.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
Your original equipment spark plugs lasted for 123,000 kms. - that is excellent. Put another set of those in. I can tell you now that the aftermarket plugs won't last any longer.What are the best spark plugs for Malibu Maxx 3.5L V6 ?
The Bosch +2 or +4 do not seen to do well in any application other than Inboard boats that have found to this day, the best option for your application would be the OE AC Delco plugs (that are platinum as well), the only other thing that I would use is a compatible NGK Platinum plug.
I have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
on my 2002 sl2 i have a misfire on the 1 cylinder i have changed the plugs wires egnition module and coils and it still misses i even swapped the plug wires to make sure they were good and the spark plugs and still stayed on 1 the compression on all cylinders is around 180psi i was just wandering if it could be caused by the crank sensor and how could i check that besides that the only other thing i can think of is the fuel injector and i run cleaner through every oil change any ideasI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
A valve is sticking it sounds like. You need that valve replacedI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
IT'S A SATURN............THAT'S THE PROBLEMI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
You;ve lareday tried everything I would have mentioned.
On a side note, I once had my 92 Saturn SL1 tuned at the dealer. I went on a trip and it started misfiring. I finally got it to a garage, and found out that the Dealer's mechanic hadn't screwed one of my plugs back in all the way.I have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
180 PSI sounds quite high....should be around 120. Sounds like a difficult problem. Possibly the computer. I think I'd start with looking at the crank sensor as well as the crank sensor ring. There should be two sensors. There is a cam sensor most likely. Some engines have 2 crank sensors, some have 1 crank and 1 cam. But you'll generally find them both when you look closely. Could be one of the two. My cousin had an 89 MK VIII that would develop a miss when the turn signal light burned out. Go figure. Good luck.I have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
use a noid light to test wire to the 1 injector if you get a signal all the cam \crank sensors are working it is probally the injector it can be tested you dont need to keep swaping parts that is the expencive way to fix thingsI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
Secondary fuel mixture problems can make a cylinder miss fire. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gasses may be blocked off from some of the cylinders, and overloading 1 cylinder with too much exhaust gas which would cause a lean miss fire. Or, you could have an intake manifold gasket leaking too much air into the 1 cylinder. You need to hook up a shop scanner to your OBD-II data port (under the steering wheel) and monitor the cylinder misfire and fuel trim data.
A valve is sticking it sounds like. You need that valve replacedI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
IT'S A SATURN............THAT'S THE PROBLEMI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
You;ve lareday tried everything I would have mentioned.
On a side note, I once had my 92 Saturn SL1 tuned at the dealer. I went on a trip and it started misfiring. I finally got it to a garage, and found out that the Dealer's mechanic hadn't screwed one of my plugs back in all the way.I have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
180 PSI sounds quite high....should be around 120. Sounds like a difficult problem. Possibly the computer. I think I'd start with looking at the crank sensor as well as the crank sensor ring. There should be two sensors. There is a cam sensor most likely. Some engines have 2 crank sensors, some have 1 crank and 1 cam. But you'll generally find them both when you look closely. Could be one of the two. My cousin had an 89 MK VIII that would develop a miss when the turn signal light burned out. Go figure. Good luck.I have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
use a noid light to test wire to the 1 injector if you get a signal all the cam \crank sensors are working it is probally the injector it can be tested you dont need to keep swaping parts that is the expencive way to fix thingsI have a misfire on a 2002 saturn sl2 what could be the problem?
Secondary fuel mixture problems can make a cylinder miss fire. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gasses may be blocked off from some of the cylinders, and overloading 1 cylinder with too much exhaust gas which would cause a lean miss fire. Or, you could have an intake manifold gasket leaking too much air into the 1 cylinder. You need to hook up a shop scanner to your OBD-II data port (under the steering wheel) and monitor the cylinder misfire and fuel trim data.
Forklift help?
we have this forklift at work that is temorarly not working and i was wondering if anyone had some advice on how to fix it.
its a 4 cylinder. Komostu
we changed the Battery, Spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, everything inside the cap. and it still won't start. the carb. is a bit drty, but i would not think that would hurt it too much.Forklift help?
The way to determine whats wrong is check these things in this order. First check for spark. Use a tool, or get a co-worker to hold the coil wire while starting.(you'll know if theres spark or not by thier reaction) Next check fuel. Spray some starting fluid into the carb. If it starts with the starting fluid and wont stay running, you have a fuel problem. If both of those things check out check compression. You'll need a guage for that. Auto Zone will let you borrow one for free. You just have to put a deposit on it.
After you check these things you'll have a good idea on what to fix.Forklift help?
one thing you didnt tell us was what type of fuel it used.
regular unleaded gas, deisel, or lp gas? if its lp gas there is a lp gas regulator between the tank and the carb, it will have a button right in the middle of it. push it and see if it spits out air, sometimes these lp gas forklifts get are in the fuel lines, and they wont fire for nothing until u relieve the air.
its a 4 cylinder. Komostu
we changed the Battery, Spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, everything inside the cap. and it still won't start. the carb. is a bit drty, but i would not think that would hurt it too much.Forklift help?
The way to determine whats wrong is check these things in this order. First check for spark. Use a tool, or get a co-worker to hold the coil wire while starting.(you'll know if theres spark or not by thier reaction) Next check fuel. Spray some starting fluid into the carb. If it starts with the starting fluid and wont stay running, you have a fuel problem. If both of those things check out check compression. You'll need a guage for that. Auto Zone will let you borrow one for free. You just have to put a deposit on it.
After you check these things you'll have a good idea on what to fix.Forklift help?
one thing you didnt tell us was what type of fuel it used.
regular unleaded gas, deisel, or lp gas? if its lp gas there is a lp gas regulator between the tank and the carb, it will have a button right in the middle of it. push it and see if it spits out air, sometimes these lp gas forklifts get are in the fuel lines, and they wont fire for nothing until u relieve the air.
'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
I have been noticing that my jeep is having a drastic decline in fuel mileage. I was getting around 330-350 miles per tank. The last couple tanks I got 210!! I replaced my spark plugs, distributor cap, and spark plug wires. No discernible change. I have also noticed a loss in power and acceleration. Any ideas about what is going on or how to fix it?%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic testcomputer wont start up networking
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
85 Z28 camaro with a 350 small block. Two months back after you drove the car around town shut it off come back later it would start and shut back off when you put it in gear. So we did take everyones ideas from here and found the Distributor did need changed two of the spark plug wires was lose on the cap. We changed cap rotor and coil. three week later it wouldn't even try to start so we had it towed to the shop and the Ignition Module needed changed. Yesterday my son came home handed me the keys and told me to sell it. He said it stalled at a light and wouldn't start so he pushed it off the road and walked home. I went to try it and it started great but ran for a few seconds and shut off. I checked the fuel filter it was only half full and then i checked the carb it was dry no gas at all. I came home got the starting fluid went back spayed it in the carb it ran a few second and shut off so i did it again after about 10 minutes it started and shut off. I got out checked the fuel filter again and this time it didn't have any fuel in it.My husband pulled in and he got out and checked it and found no gas in carb or filter, He wanted to try the starting fluid it did the same thing with him so he wanted to call tow truck i said no way i think this car is in love with that tow truck. I got in and pumped it and he did the starting fluid and he ran as long as I keep my foot on the gas as soon as i let go it sounded like it was going to stall and did. i turned the key it started then shut off. I told him to do the starting fluid one more time and this time i pumped it and then held the gas pedal to the floor and it started running bad but running i drove it home putting it in neutral at red lights keep it running but it still sounded like it was going to stall. We got home pulled off the fuel line turned the key and no fuel at all came out and the fuel filter had no fuel at all.Not sure how this car made it home like that. We changed the fuel filter took it for a drive it run good checked fuel filter and carb they both had gas. This morning I started it and it was running great i pulled it out of the driveway so my husband to get out and then by the time i pulled it in to the garage it didn't sound right so i checked filter and carb fuel filter was dry and carb had very little. I told my son not to go far away from home with it but he did. he drove about 20 miles to a friends house and it didn't shut off about six hours later he left there to come home and about a mile from the house it shut off seconds after he left a red light. A few hours later we went to try to start it and two turns of the key and it started and we didn't use starting fluid. We welcome any ideas we have had to tow this car six times in the year we have had it because of it stalling and not wanted to start we have had it taking to three auto repair places and no can find out why. It has a new crate motor and the fuel pump it only seven months old the carb is a brand new holly just got it in Jan of this year. new wires and plugs in Jan. Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
If it has a carburetor then it has a mechanical fuel pump.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine. Does fuel spit all over the place?
YES: There is adequate fuel supply. The problem is probably in the carburetor.
NO: Consider the following:
1. Bad fuel pump
2. Supply line collapse or restriction
3. Clogged vents in gas cap
By the way, there should only be one fuel filter. It is located inside the carburetor right where the fuel line connects. There is a housing that contains (usually) a paper element.
Good luck!Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
tl;dr
Anyways, basic skimming points to a fuel filler cap. It might be fuel locking and starving the motor of fuel, and then when it dies it comes back a few minutes later cause the air in the line moves back.
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
How are the fuel tank and pick-up? Lines from tank to filter? I would start there, based upon what I am reading. Filler cap on an 85? that far back ok, sounds good to me. If not move on. Thanks for the info.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
only one possible / probable cause for not getting fuel, the filter in the tank or the pump its self, i would drop the tank drain and clean it, there are companies that do this-and have the tank coated on the inside, this really helps bigtime, it will also stop, repair and pinholes that may have been forming, the fuel pump has to be the mail problem, now, with a carb the pump is mechanically driven, it is on the passenger side of the block, since it will run with starting fluid the fuel pressure is the problem, holley makes a nice pump thats mechanical and you can adjust the position of the inlet and return /vent lines, good luckFuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
THE PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP, CHECK FOE VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A TEST LIGHT FROM KRAGEN OR SOMETHING. IF SO, THEN CHECK AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT, DO THIS BY TURNING ON THE IGNITION AND LISTEN FOR A LOW HUMMING NOISE. ALSO LOOK AND SEE IF ANY FUEL HOSE OR LINES ARE PINCHED. TELL ME IF IT HELPS.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
First does it have a electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if it has a mechanical fuel pump it could be worn out and leaking gas into the motor and not pumping it into the carb or if it has a electric fuel pump u could have a ground or power issue making the pump shut off now and then due to bumps (pot holes) in the road causing the wires to move and killing the pump so once u run out of the gas thats in the carb the car stalls out Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
try the crankshaft position sensor,and the throttle position sensor if you have either one of those ,,,,
also it sounds like your TIMING is off ..i don't think it is the timing chain though because you didn't mention a back fire.............i think your spark is hitting after the fuel has been released ....which leads me to think it may be your fuel pump .....i understand that it is about 7 months old but autozone has been having problems with fuel pumps the last few months..also check for a fuel relay for your vehicle......autozone.com has online repair manuals and troubleshooting guides and componet locator guides for many vehicles
If it has a carburetor then it has a mechanical fuel pump.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine. Does fuel spit all over the place?
YES: There is adequate fuel supply. The problem is probably in the carburetor.
NO: Consider the following:
1. Bad fuel pump
2. Supply line collapse or restriction
3. Clogged vents in gas cap
By the way, there should only be one fuel filter. It is located inside the carburetor right where the fuel line connects. There is a housing that contains (usually) a paper element.
Good luck!Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
tl;dr
Anyways, basic skimming points to a fuel filler cap. It might be fuel locking and starving the motor of fuel, and then when it dies it comes back a few minutes later cause the air in the line moves back.
Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
How are the fuel tank and pick-up? Lines from tank to filter? I would start there, based upon what I am reading. Filler cap on an 85? that far back ok, sounds good to me. If not move on. Thanks for the info.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
only one possible / probable cause for not getting fuel, the filter in the tank or the pump its self, i would drop the tank drain and clean it, there are companies that do this-and have the tank coated on the inside, this really helps bigtime, it will also stop, repair and pinholes that may have been forming, the fuel pump has to be the mail problem, now, with a carb the pump is mechanically driven, it is on the passenger side of the block, since it will run with starting fluid the fuel pressure is the problem, holley makes a nice pump thats mechanical and you can adjust the position of the inlet and return /vent lines, good luckFuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
THE PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP, CHECK FOE VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A TEST LIGHT FROM KRAGEN OR SOMETHING. IF SO, THEN CHECK AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT, DO THIS BY TURNING ON THE IGNITION AND LISTEN FOR A LOW HUMMING NOISE. ALSO LOOK AND SEE IF ANY FUEL HOSE OR LINES ARE PINCHED. TELL ME IF IT HELPS.Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
First does it have a electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if it has a mechanical fuel pump it could be worn out and leaking gas into the motor and not pumping it into the carb or if it has a electric fuel pump u could have a ground or power issue making the pump shut off now and then due to bumps (pot holes) in the road causing the wires to move and killing the pump so once u run out of the gas thats in the carb the car stalls out Fuel filter and carb not always getting fuel
try the crankshaft position sensor,and the throttle position sensor if you have either one of those ,,,,
also it sounds like your TIMING is off ..i don't think it is the timing chain though because you didn't mention a back fire.............i think your spark is hitting after the fuel has been released ....which leads me to think it may be your fuel pump .....i understand that it is about 7 months old but autozone has been having problems with fuel pumps the last few months..also check for a fuel relay for your vehicle......autozone.com has online repair manuals and troubleshooting guides and componet locator guides for many vehicles
TUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Hey there I have a 1997 cadillac sts 4.6L v8 32 north-star and my question is what is the best type of spark plugs and wires, with a somewhat of a tight budget, and a another question is i have noticed that there is not distributor, but it looks like a coil pack and does that needs to be changed as well, when i change the spark plugs and wires and how much does those coils are and thank you for your answersTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not %26quot;start%26quot; to go out.
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not %26quot;start%26quot; to go out.
98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
Hello, I pulled the plug wires one by one, no change in idle with no. 2 cylinder, could hear it sparking with wire pulled. Could it be a clogged injector? Could the fuel filer be clogged, and the bypass is letting junk into the throttle body? Any ideas on how much to fix? Thanks for all of your help, John98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
Or it could be valves %26quot;jacked%26quot; in that cylinder.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
Vacuum leak? (little hose came off?)
Fouled/burned spark plug? Remove the spark plug. It's a lot cheaper and easier than an injector.
If the engine runs fine while driving, but idles like crap, it's more likely it's a vacuum leak.
Look and listen for a high pitched sucking noise.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
if your getting fire from the plug wire, then take the plug out and clean it, or replace it, the plug might not be firing, or theres not enough fire coming through the wire.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
could be a clogged injector, or the injector is not even working. that is the most probable cause because it is limited to just that one cylinder.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
could be a bad spark plug, could be a bad injector only two options on this.
good luck
Or it could be valves %26quot;jacked%26quot; in that cylinder.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
Vacuum leak? (little hose came off?)
Fouled/burned spark plug? Remove the spark plug. It's a lot cheaper and easier than an injector.
If the engine runs fine while driving, but idles like crap, it's more likely it's a vacuum leak.
Look and listen for a high pitched sucking noise.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
if your getting fire from the plug wire, then take the plug out and clean it, or replace it, the plug might not be firing, or theres not enough fire coming through the wire.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
could be a clogged injector, or the injector is not even working. that is the most probable cause because it is limited to just that one cylinder.98 corolla rough idle, no. 2 cylinder, getting spark, clogged injector?
could be a bad spark plug, could be a bad injector only two options on this.
good luck
How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
Was previously having difficulty starting the car. I'd start the car up and then it would immediately shut off. Start the car a 2nd time and give it the gas, the car would run fine. Yesterday on the way to work, car broke down and won't restart at all. I put gas in it. Car also had tune up and oil change 2 months ago and spark plug wires were also changed out. So this is why I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. The car has a 4.5 liter V8 in it. How much is it to replace the fuel pump?How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
Parts and labor on the fuel pump plus draining the tank will be around $405.00 dollars.......
Replacement of the fuel filter will be around $35.00 dollars....
The fuel filter is located near the frame in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side of the vehicle......How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
OH ME OH MY. LETS NOT BEAT AROUND THE BUSH. WITH PARTS AND LABOR PROBABLY BETWEEN 2 AND 3 HUNDRED DOLLARS.How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
try replacing the fuel filter first. If it is blocked it will starve the engine of gas. Typically the fuel pressure builds and you notice herky jerky acceleration.How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
To have it replaced at an independent repair shop it should be around $213.00. At a dealership it will cost around $296.00. While your having this done, have the fuel filter changed also. Most fuel pump warranties require it. Hope this helps.
Parts and labor on the fuel pump plus draining the tank will be around $405.00 dollars.......
Replacement of the fuel filter will be around $35.00 dollars....
The fuel filter is located near the frame in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side of the vehicle......How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
OH ME OH MY. LETS NOT BEAT AROUND THE BUSH. WITH PARTS AND LABOR PROBABLY BETWEEN 2 AND 3 HUNDRED DOLLARS.How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
try replacing the fuel filter first. If it is blocked it will starve the engine of gas. Typically the fuel pressure builds and you notice herky jerky acceleration.How much does it cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1990 Cadillac Seville?
To have it replaced at an independent repair shop it should be around $213.00. At a dealership it will cost around $296.00. While your having this done, have the fuel filter changed also. Most fuel pump warranties require it. Hope this helps.
HELP!!! My car is running rough after some tune-ups I made...how can I fix it?!?!?!!!!!?
hi everyone, I have a 1993 nissan quest gxe 3.0L V6 with 81,000 miles on it. Last week I decided to change its 6 spark plugs with new ones, but before that a spark plug wire came apart when I tried to take it off. I replaced the 6 spark plugs and left the bad spark plug wire in place. The car ran rough, since everytime I pushed on the gas, the revs were barely increasing, and therefore I was wasting more gas than normal. I then decided to wash the engine with a hose and some degreaser (no pressure hose, just normal hose) and let it dried for about 30 min. I started the car and it still ran as rough as before. Later I went to the store and got some plug wires (the same ones, stock) and installed them. The car STILL ran rough!! Im thinking it may be 3 possible things why the car is running rough:
a. The air intake filter system got some water in it THROUGH the housing (I covered the air entry with plastic bags)
b. The car may need some oil change, since its next oil service expired 2,000 miles ago.
c. The car sensors and wires might have got some water, and therefore they are giving wrong reading.
d. The spark plug GAP is not the correct (I did not checked the gap, I just inserted the spark plugs)
e. The spark plugs are not working correctly.
f. Not all 6 cylinders are working, maybe only 5 or 4...and if so, how can I check if all of them are working?
PLEASE HELP!!! PLEASE HELP!!! PLEASE HELP!!!!HELP!!! My car is running rough after some tune-ups I made...how can I fix it?!?!?!!!!!?
very possible you got the plug wires on wrong to begin with, you also need to take the plugs back out and gap them properly, find out the proper firing order and get those plug wires on correctly, if all this checks out and still doesn't run any better you better take it to a mechanic, just remember, water and electrical parts don't go together especially if you don't know what to cover up before you start spraying the water around.HELP!!! My car is running rough after some tune-ups I made...how can I fix it?!?!?!!!!!?
g. You don't need to be working on your car. Take it to the shop.cryptoapi vs capicom bacteria grows
a. The air intake filter system got some water in it THROUGH the housing (I covered the air entry with plastic bags)
b. The car may need some oil change, since its next oil service expired 2,000 miles ago.
c. The car sensors and wires might have got some water, and therefore they are giving wrong reading.
d. The spark plug GAP is not the correct (I did not checked the gap, I just inserted the spark plugs)
e. The spark plugs are not working correctly.
f. Not all 6 cylinders are working, maybe only 5 or 4...and if so, how can I check if all of them are working?
PLEASE HELP!!! PLEASE HELP!!! PLEASE HELP!!!!HELP!!! My car is running rough after some tune-ups I made...how can I fix it?!?!?!!!!!?
very possible you got the plug wires on wrong to begin with, you also need to take the plugs back out and gap them properly, find out the proper firing order and get those plug wires on correctly, if all this checks out and still doesn't run any better you better take it to a mechanic, just remember, water and electrical parts don't go together especially if you don't know what to cover up before you start spraying the water around.HELP!!! My car is running rough after some tune-ups I made...how can I fix it?!?!?!!!!!?
g. You don't need to be working on your car. Take it to the shop.
I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
How do you access the motor well enough to change out the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap %26amp; rotor.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
there is a %26quot;dog house%26quot; you have to remove. It is the hump below the lower center of the dash. lots of times they have drink holder attached to them. there are two latches across the bottom(might be slightly under the floor board carpet) and one latch one the right an left side. Undo the latches and snake it out from between the seats. Sometimes you have to move the center console back(also attached with latches)1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
What you can't get from inside the van either underneath or jack up the van and get it between the tire and the fender. THere is a leather like flap. That you lift up and then you can view.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
what tootsie said or remove the dash1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
take the body off the frame.
No not really, remove the engine cover inside the van for cap and rotor and wire access and the rear plugs, jack up the van and reach thru the wheel well for the front 4
there is a %26quot;dog house%26quot; you have to remove. It is the hump below the lower center of the dash. lots of times they have drink holder attached to them. there are two latches across the bottom(might be slightly under the floor board carpet) and one latch one the right an left side. Undo the latches and snake it out from between the seats. Sometimes you have to move the center console back(also attached with latches)1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
What you can't get from inside the van either underneath or jack up the van and get it between the tire and the fender. THere is a leather like flap. That you lift up and then you can view.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
what tootsie said or remove the dash1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
take the body off the frame.
No not really, remove the engine cover inside the van for cap and rotor and wire access and the rear plugs, jack up the van and reach thru the wheel well for the front 4
How can i stop this?
i have a 1998 nissan maxima, and its been sitting a few months due to needs transmission im about to put it in shop to get that fixed but ive been noticing since its been sitting, everytime it rains or i clean the engine/something with water it gives me a problem starting, what could be getting wet? ive installed a cold air intake since its been sitting but thats not getting touched as i never cleaned the engine then and it did it before, and i had it diagnostic tested and had a valve 5 misfire so i planned on changing all spark plugs and plug wires once the car is mobile again, any other thoughts on what i could do to stop this? and the ignition switch is kinda messed up as in where the original key i can literraly take the key out of the ignition when the car is in drive or anygear and running, so i usually spend a few seconds messing with that to get the key in the right spot to start the car but ive been noticing this in the rain, any answers?How can i stop this?
plug wires and distributor cap getting damp change them and spray them with WD40 or any type of silicone this will keep the water out and solve your problem this will not effect your tumbler assemblyHow can i stop this?
what?? ok start overHow can i stop this?
Distributer cap.How can i stop this?
Probably what he said (Blunt Honesty)How can i stop this?
First off, Quit spraying your engine with water,
There are a number of electrical components under the hood that should not get wet.
The reason it won't start after washing the engine is because you're shorting thigs out. Primarily the distributor cap.
If you got water inside the distributor cap, it will take a VERY long time for the water to evaporate. Remove the distributor cap and let it sit and dry out for a day.
As far as the key problem, you will have to replace the tumbler assembly.How can i stop this?
well all depends on what your missing when it won't start.
do you have spark when it acts up?
if so, are you getting fuel?
If you could give me the answers to those two question, a better diagnosis could be made.How can i stop this?
You have several issues going on that could be causing the problem, so you need to address them in order to get the car performing properly. First off, assuming that you are going to go ahead and actually do all the fixes you claim, I'd go ahead and change out the plugs %26amp; wires now. It's not overly expensive and might help with your starting problem. If you have old wires with cracked insulation, the moisture might be seeping into them and causing your wet weather problem. The bad ignition switch could also be the culprit and not the moisture. It will need to be replaced eventually. I suggest doing so...your starting problem might go away.
Also if water's creeping in under the hood, it could be getting the distributor wet. (When you are cleaning the engine, you should always cover the distributor with plastic to keep it dry. If you haven't been, that could be your problem right there.) Check the distributor cap for cracks, etc. where condensation or moisture could be seeping in, check battery wires to see if they are in good shape, and inspect the starter and wires to it for cracks, damage, or evidence of shorting.
If you are convinced it's a moisture issue, a good way of finding out where the water might be going is to hose down the car, then look under the hood to see if the water is seeping in someplace via a bad hood seal, etc...
Hope this helps a little.How can i stop this?
Great tip with the WD-40. If the distributor is getting wet, check to see how. If it is from washing the engine quit doing that! You shouldn't be washing it anyway. WD-40 will essentially dry your disrtibutor instantly. (the WD in WD-40 stands for water displacing)
As for the key issue, take it into your dealer and have them fix it. This does not affect how the car starts, but they do wear out and sometimes they can be turned with any object that fits in there.
plug wires and distributor cap getting damp change them and spray them with WD40 or any type of silicone this will keep the water out and solve your problem this will not effect your tumbler assemblyHow can i stop this?
what?? ok start overHow can i stop this?
Distributer cap.How can i stop this?
Probably what he said (Blunt Honesty)How can i stop this?
First off, Quit spraying your engine with water,
There are a number of electrical components under the hood that should not get wet.
The reason it won't start after washing the engine is because you're shorting thigs out. Primarily the distributor cap.
If you got water inside the distributor cap, it will take a VERY long time for the water to evaporate. Remove the distributor cap and let it sit and dry out for a day.
As far as the key problem, you will have to replace the tumbler assembly.How can i stop this?
well all depends on what your missing when it won't start.
do you have spark when it acts up?
if so, are you getting fuel?
If you could give me the answers to those two question, a better diagnosis could be made.How can i stop this?
You have several issues going on that could be causing the problem, so you need to address them in order to get the car performing properly. First off, assuming that you are going to go ahead and actually do all the fixes you claim, I'd go ahead and change out the plugs %26amp; wires now. It's not overly expensive and might help with your starting problem. If you have old wires with cracked insulation, the moisture might be seeping into them and causing your wet weather problem. The bad ignition switch could also be the culprit and not the moisture. It will need to be replaced eventually. I suggest doing so...your starting problem might go away.
Also if water's creeping in under the hood, it could be getting the distributor wet. (When you are cleaning the engine, you should always cover the distributor with plastic to keep it dry. If you haven't been, that could be your problem right there.) Check the distributor cap for cracks, etc. where condensation or moisture could be seeping in, check battery wires to see if they are in good shape, and inspect the starter and wires to it for cracks, damage, or evidence of shorting.
If you are convinced it's a moisture issue, a good way of finding out where the water might be going is to hose down the car, then look under the hood to see if the water is seeping in someplace via a bad hood seal, etc...
Hope this helps a little.How can i stop this?
Great tip with the WD-40. If the distributor is getting wet, check to see how. If it is from washing the engine quit doing that! You shouldn't be washing it anyway. WD-40 will essentially dry your disrtibutor instantly. (the WD in WD-40 stands for water displacing)
As for the key issue, take it into your dealer and have them fix it. This does not affect how the car starts, but they do wear out and sometimes they can be turned with any object that fits in there.
Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
2000 Honda Civic EX (4 cylinder) 159,000 miles.
I took it to Autozone and they told me it was code P0303. I did some research on line and so far this can be the cause...Faulty Spark Plugs, Faulty Spark Plug Wires, Coil Pack, Fuel Injector. The guy at Autozone told me that I should change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Is changing all of this necessary? About how much will all this cost? Any ides as to where I should start? I don't want to start changing parts that don't need to be changed. I'm hoping it's only the spark plugs since I haven't changed them in years (I know!). Are these parts hard to replace...is it something I can do or do I need to take it to a pro?Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
My daughter does her own tune-ups on her Civic. These parts should be replaced more often than every eight years, sis (check your owners manual). The whole kit should be around $100, and it will save you money with the better gas mileage you will get.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Auto zone cannot always give you the exact part that is going bad. But the sad this is it can be any of those. Have you checked the gap on the spark plug, or ever had them replaced? Make sure that sprak plug wire is connected securely too. Hondas only have one coil, so if it was bad or going bad you'd know it. It only has one pack for all 4 cylinders. 2nd have someone check the distributor cap, as there could be some corrosion on the tabs inside and just needing cleaned off. If you take any spark plug wires off do 1 at a time that way you will remeber the firing sequence.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
honestly the ODBII lights can light up if you have one misfire... the question is whether the car is running fine. If it is then dont' even worry about it...if you think you need spark plugs then change them and while your at it go ahead and change the plug wires.... but dont assume that the light knows all and tells all.... I've had the lights pop on simply because I washed the engine and then started the car before the engine was completely dry.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
I would start with the plugs. However make sure you get NGK or Denso plugs, do not use AUTOLIGHT, CHAMPION or BOSCH plugs. The problem with trying to fix your car from a code is its only a starting point for what could be the problem. If it's been year since you changed the plugs how long for the cap and rotor? These also can wear out over time. The reason Autozone does the free scan is so they can sell you the parts to fix it so while he may be correct in saying re place everything, if your trying to save money start with the plugs and then the cap and rotor and wires last.I would not worry much about the coil if it was bad you would most likly have more than one mis-fire code.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Start with the least expensive thing or take it to a shop.
Start with the plugs they are like $10 if you can replace them yourself.
Very unlikely it is the injector.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Never put a part on just because it could be a problem - diagnose first! First you should remove the 3 spark plug and check it for fouling (you should be able to find pictures of spark plugs that have been run under different conditions easily online if you've never done plugs before). If it is fouled, then you know it is part of the problem, but you don't know it is the problem. Next inspect the wire for carbon tracking, tears in the insulation, corrosion on the metal contacts or discoloration. Also check the resistance in the wire and make sure it is not too high. Remove the distributor cap and check inside for burns, cracks, carbon tracking and corrosion on the cap and rotor. Inspect the rotor button (metal contact) for wear as well and make sure the contacts inside the cap are in good condition. If you have done this in the past 30K it is unlikely unless your cap has a water leak or the wire has been installed but not run through the holders or damaged, but if it has not been serviced in a long time, spark is likely your problem. An injector check is more difficult. You can use a noid light to check injector pulse (make sure the wiring is working properly), but you may need to take it to a shop to check injector flow unless you have this equipment at home.
This is what your initial research missed. While it is highly unlikely that this is your problem because many engine problems present with noise as well as a misfire, I cannot let an internal engine problem go unmentioned as a possible cause. If everything else is good (or you want to skip the fuel system check because you don't have the equipment), you can get a compression tester or take it to a shop for this step. Remove the spark plugs and check the dry compression on each cylinder. If you notice a drop of more than 20% on cylinder 3 you've found your problem. Then you should do a wet compression test (add a SMALL amount of oil to cyl 3 and check the compression again). If the compression improves, the problem is the piston rings and if it does not it is likely in the valvetrain. Here's another part where you can get stuck without expensive equipment - unless you want to tear into your engine, if the wet and dry compression checks are bad you will need to do a leakdown test by pumping air into the cylinder on the compression stroke (valves closed and piston at the top of its stroke) and determining where it leaks out. If it comes out the intake, it is an intake valve problem, if it comes out the exhaust it is and exhaust valve problem, if it goes into the crankcase, it is a block problem and otherwise it is a warped/cracked head or head gasket problem. The head gasket is a very involved repair, but there are a lot of people that can do it themselves by sending the head to a machine shop to be inspected and installing a new head gasket and head bolts if the head passes inspection or can be machined. Most machine shops will do any valvetrain repairs you need as well. A block problem condemns the engine. The other problems are a cost analysis of whether it is better to fix or replace the engine cost wise. Since I can build an engine, I would likely fix it, but if I had to pay for labor I might reconsider that. Be sure to get an estimate both ways if it comes to that so you can see the difference in the warranty and price.
I took it to Autozone and they told me it was code P0303. I did some research on line and so far this can be the cause...Faulty Spark Plugs, Faulty Spark Plug Wires, Coil Pack, Fuel Injector. The guy at Autozone told me that I should change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Is changing all of this necessary? About how much will all this cost? Any ides as to where I should start? I don't want to start changing parts that don't need to be changed. I'm hoping it's only the spark plugs since I haven't changed them in years (I know!). Are these parts hard to replace...is it something I can do or do I need to take it to a pro?Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
My daughter does her own tune-ups on her Civic. These parts should be replaced more often than every eight years, sis (check your owners manual). The whole kit should be around $100, and it will save you money with the better gas mileage you will get.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Auto zone cannot always give you the exact part that is going bad. But the sad this is it can be any of those. Have you checked the gap on the spark plug, or ever had them replaced? Make sure that sprak plug wire is connected securely too. Hondas only have one coil, so if it was bad or going bad you'd know it. It only has one pack for all 4 cylinders. 2nd have someone check the distributor cap, as there could be some corrosion on the tabs inside and just needing cleaned off. If you take any spark plug wires off do 1 at a time that way you will remeber the firing sequence.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
honestly the ODBII lights can light up if you have one misfire... the question is whether the car is running fine. If it is then dont' even worry about it...if you think you need spark plugs then change them and while your at it go ahead and change the plug wires.... but dont assume that the light knows all and tells all.... I've had the lights pop on simply because I washed the engine and then started the car before the engine was completely dry.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
I would start with the plugs. However make sure you get NGK or Denso plugs, do not use AUTOLIGHT, CHAMPION or BOSCH plugs. The problem with trying to fix your car from a code is its only a starting point for what could be the problem. If it's been year since you changed the plugs how long for the cap and rotor? These also can wear out over time. The reason Autozone does the free scan is so they can sell you the parts to fix it so while he may be correct in saying re place everything, if your trying to save money start with the plugs and then the cap and rotor and wires last.I would not worry much about the coil if it was bad you would most likly have more than one mis-fire code.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Start with the least expensive thing or take it to a shop.
Start with the plugs they are like $10 if you can replace them yourself.
Very unlikely it is the injector.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Never put a part on just because it could be a problem - diagnose first! First you should remove the 3 spark plug and check it for fouling (you should be able to find pictures of spark plugs that have been run under different conditions easily online if you've never done plugs before). If it is fouled, then you know it is part of the problem, but you don't know it is the problem. Next inspect the wire for carbon tracking, tears in the insulation, corrosion on the metal contacts or discoloration. Also check the resistance in the wire and make sure it is not too high. Remove the distributor cap and check inside for burns, cracks, carbon tracking and corrosion on the cap and rotor. Inspect the rotor button (metal contact) for wear as well and make sure the contacts inside the cap are in good condition. If you have done this in the past 30K it is unlikely unless your cap has a water leak or the wire has been installed but not run through the holders or damaged, but if it has not been serviced in a long time, spark is likely your problem. An injector check is more difficult. You can use a noid light to check injector pulse (make sure the wiring is working properly), but you may need to take it to a shop to check injector flow unless you have this equipment at home.
This is what your initial research missed. While it is highly unlikely that this is your problem because many engine problems present with noise as well as a misfire, I cannot let an internal engine problem go unmentioned as a possible cause. If everything else is good (or you want to skip the fuel system check because you don't have the equipment), you can get a compression tester or take it to a shop for this step. Remove the spark plugs and check the dry compression on each cylinder. If you notice a drop of more than 20% on cylinder 3 you've found your problem. Then you should do a wet compression test (add a SMALL amount of oil to cyl 3 and check the compression again). If the compression improves, the problem is the piston rings and if it does not it is likely in the valvetrain. Here's another part where you can get stuck without expensive equipment - unless you want to tear into your engine, if the wet and dry compression checks are bad you will need to do a leakdown test by pumping air into the cylinder on the compression stroke (valves closed and piston at the top of its stroke) and determining where it leaks out. If it comes out the intake, it is an intake valve problem, if it comes out the exhaust it is and exhaust valve problem, if it goes into the crankcase, it is a block problem and otherwise it is a warped/cracked head or head gasket problem. The head gasket is a very involved repair, but there are a lot of people that can do it themselves by sending the head to a machine shop to be inspected and installing a new head gasket and head bolts if the head passes inspection or can be machined. Most machine shops will do any valvetrain repairs you need as well. A block problem condemns the engine. The other problems are a cost analysis of whether it is better to fix or replace the engine cost wise. Since I can build an engine, I would likely fix it, but if I had to pay for labor I might reconsider that. Be sure to get an estimate both ways if it comes to that so you can see the difference in the warranty and price.
How to make an engine run better?
so i bought a 1994 s10 2.2l 4 cyl from my dad. he never did a tune up . it runs fine but i did one neway. i replaced the spark plugs wires and air filter. tomorrow im going to throw some sea foam in it a new o2 sensor in it and im going to do an oil change and change the fuel filter. then im going to have the belts done professionaly. is there anything else that i can do to prolong the life of this engine? anything?! noting to drastic thoughHow to make an engine run better?
Prolong the life of the motor by NOT using Seafoam!How to make an engine run better?
Do the seafoam first then change the spark plugs and oil. What you have listed is great. Just use good quality oil. Maybe use synthetic and stick with AC spark plugs or AC parts in general.How to make an engine run better?
Check your transmission oil
They had this for my vette but you can check the diagnostics codes for it and it will tell you what wrong if there is any.
every thing else looks good thou =)How to make an engine run better?
Sounds like you got the basics covered. Have a look at the rear end oil. If its 4x4 also the transfer case and front axle. Have the brakes checked and when they are looking at the back have a close look at the seals to the axle. When they get old they can leak oil into the brakes. Some new shocks would likely make it ride much smoother if you have the money.hard drive interrogate java
Prolong the life of the motor by NOT using Seafoam!How to make an engine run better?
Do the seafoam first then change the spark plugs and oil. What you have listed is great. Just use good quality oil. Maybe use synthetic and stick with AC spark plugs or AC parts in general.How to make an engine run better?
Check your transmission oil
They had this for my vette but you can check the diagnostics codes for it and it will tell you what wrong if there is any.
every thing else looks good thou =)How to make an engine run better?
Sounds like you got the basics covered. Have a look at the rear end oil. If its 4x4 also the transfer case and front axle. Have the brakes checked and when they are looking at the back have a close look at the seals to the axle. When they get old they can leak oil into the brakes. Some new shocks would likely make it ride much smoother if you have the money.
1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
I recently changed all the spark plugs and wires, rotor cap,and a new thing that needs the points set. Now the truck ran before i did all that, could it be that it doesnt run because the points are not set? I dont know that much about trucks so , what feeler gauge should i use or shall i say what points do i set them at?.......Now i do know the arm moves horizontal and you use an allen wrench to set it i think...PLEASE GIVE ANSWERS IN YOUR SIMPLEST EXPLANATION ON HOW TO DO THAT AND IF THAT IS THE REASON WHY IT DOESNT START UP ......it does turn over but it just wont catch sparkHow do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
Your 1977 P/U does not have a point distributor unless someone have changed it.
It has a HEI type distributor with the coil mounted in the cap.
If you are not getting spark check
1. On the front side of the cap there is a 3 wire plug closest to the cap. The outer terminals are marked BAT %26amp; TACH
2. Remove the BAT wire %26amp; Check for continuity
3. If there is power [with the key on] Then remove the cap.
4. Inspect the condition of rotor, cap, %26amp; center electrode.
5. If checks OK remove the module mounted to the base plate
6. Inspect the wires for overheating or corrosion.
7. If the module is original, replace it.
8. With an Ohm meter check the continuity of the pickup coil.
9. If checks OK remove the HEI coil from the cap %26amp; check continuity.
10. Buy a manual if unsure how to perform these procedures
- - -How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
Make sure you have the firing order correct from the cap to the plugs. The points are set to a certain gap. You will have to find out what gap that is for your particular vehicle. As the rotor turns, you'll notice the points close and open. On the closed part is where you'll set the gap.How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
i had a gmc once and its hard to get a feelers guage in those kinds that takes a allen wrench.if the points are not opening up and closing,you wont get spark.ok. turn the engine over by hand,until the points are on the high edge on the rubbing cam on the distributer shaft,then take a allen wrench and turn the points,until you think its looks like about 0.17 thousands and start your truck,now open the little window in the cap and take the allen wrench and turn the points,1 way the engine will almost shut the engine down and the other way,you will lose power,put it in the middle ways.that will work,until you get a meter put on it.How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
a 1977 any vehicle should not have points. electronic ignition started in the last half of 1974. but if you do have points in this truck it's an older engine. if you don't have a point gauge you can use a matchbook cover to set your points. install the points,bump the ignition til one of the distr.shaft lobes open the points insert gauge .017 thous. loosen screw ,close points te meet gauge,tighten screw and your done. put rotor and cap back on. start engine
Your 1977 P/U does not have a point distributor unless someone have changed it.
It has a HEI type distributor with the coil mounted in the cap.
If you are not getting spark check
1. On the front side of the cap there is a 3 wire plug closest to the cap. The outer terminals are marked BAT %26amp; TACH
2. Remove the BAT wire %26amp; Check for continuity
3. If there is power [with the key on] Then remove the cap.
4. Inspect the condition of rotor, cap, %26amp; center electrode.
5. If checks OK remove the module mounted to the base plate
6. Inspect the wires for overheating or corrosion.
7. If the module is original, replace it.
8. With an Ohm meter check the continuity of the pickup coil.
9. If checks OK remove the HEI coil from the cap %26amp; check continuity.
10. Buy a manual if unsure how to perform these procedures
- - -How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
Make sure you have the firing order correct from the cap to the plugs. The points are set to a certain gap. You will have to find out what gap that is for your particular vehicle. As the rotor turns, you'll notice the points close and open. On the closed part is where you'll set the gap.How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
i had a gmc once and its hard to get a feelers guage in those kinds that takes a allen wrench.if the points are not opening up and closing,you wont get spark.ok. turn the engine over by hand,until the points are on the high edge on the rubbing cam on the distributer shaft,then take a allen wrench and turn the points,until you think its looks like about 0.17 thousands and start your truck,now open the little window in the cap and take the allen wrench and turn the points,1 way the engine will almost shut the engine down and the other way,you will lose power,put it in the middle ways.that will work,until you get a meter put on it.How do i set the points on my 1977 GMC chevy sierra?
a 1977 any vehicle should not have points. electronic ignition started in the last half of 1974. but if you do have points in this truck it's an older engine. if you don't have a point gauge you can use a matchbook cover to set your points. install the points,bump the ignition til one of the distr.shaft lobes open the points insert gauge .017 thous. loosen screw ,close points te meet gauge,tighten screw and your done. put rotor and cap back on. start engine
NEED HELP: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi?
I have a 1990 eagle talon TSi (turbo). I think I might have mixed up spark plug wires because I changed the wires out and now the engine shakes a bit more than before.
Does anyone have a diagram or explanation to help me figure out how the wires line up?
the holes are set up like this-
from behind the engine:
(1) - being closest to the firewall
(2)
(3)
(4) - closest to the front of the car
to on top of the valve cover from left to right:
(1) (2) (3) (4)
Simply telling me which number from the first set goes to the what number in the second set will greatly help!!!
Thank you so much in advance
ps. the numbers do not signify how I have my wires set up right now.NEED HELP: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi?
i'm not really sure what you are asking, but 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, 3 goes to 3, and 4 goes to 4. usually the wires are a certain length so you really can't screw it up. next time you change spark plugs do them one at a time. take one off and put the new on on before you move to the next, that way there is no confusion and you know you have it right.NEED HELP: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi?
most distributor caps have the 1 on the 1 nipple .figure out which way the rotor button turns and go from there
Does anyone have a diagram or explanation to help me figure out how the wires line up?
the holes are set up like this-
from behind the engine:
(1) - being closest to the firewall
(2)
(3)
(4) - closest to the front of the car
to on top of the valve cover from left to right:
(1) (2) (3) (4)
Simply telling me which number from the first set goes to the what number in the second set will greatly help!!!
Thank you so much in advance
ps. the numbers do not signify how I have my wires set up right now.NEED HELP: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi?
i'm not really sure what you are asking, but 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, 3 goes to 3, and 4 goes to 4. usually the wires are a certain length so you really can't screw it up. next time you change spark plugs do them one at a time. take one off and put the new on on before you move to the next, that way there is no confusion and you know you have it right.NEED HELP: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi?
most distributor caps have the 1 on the 1 nipple .figure out which way the rotor button turns and go from there
$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
i took my 2003 monte carlo in for a tune up a couple weeks ago and the mechanic told me first he would charge me $110 to change the spark plugs and if the wires had to be replaced it would be an additional cost....
when i came back 3 hours later to pick up my car, the bill came out to be $200. He said he had changed all the wires and spark plugs.
To avoid having this happen to me again, does anyone know how much it costs to have a catalytic converter fixed?$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
Yes, it does sounds like you got burned, It would cost me around between 50 to 80 bucks for a tune up.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
I don't agree with the other on some cars it's a lot of work for a tune up and your car has a computer that needs to be checked and set and the wires are costly also.
Go to a muffler shop for your catalytic converter$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
$200 is a middle of the road amount for a tune up.
Remember you aren't just paying for parts!
If you figure most shops charge about $75/hour for labor, plus parts, tax, and any disposal fees. A tune up would take probably an hour to an hour and a half, depending on the car. Just like when you go to a Doctor, you aren't just paying for pills, you pay for the doctors time.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
plugs cost like 3-6 bucks a peice , then u add maybe 40 for wires... add $30 an hour for labor and there is where u get burnt!!! i never go to a shop unless it involves tools i do not have. umm with the cat... ive had a shop build me a full custom cat back exhaust for $175 , so a cat. repacement should be around 40-50 plus the cost of the new cat.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
You sure did! A Catalytic Converter used to cost between $125.00 and $150.00. They may have gone up by now though. Call and get estimates. I just got reamed for my riding mower.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
If you take your vehicle to a reputable shop, they can inspect your catalytic converter. Yeah, you can get a cheap cat conv, but may not be exactly what you need for your ride. If you go back with OEM, its gonna give you a heart attack on price. So your in a pickle . But it could be a number of things besides a cat conv, any number of sensors, pump, fuel filter, wiring, injectors, ect. But 200 bucks for wire and plug, seems kinda high to me.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
Well, 200 hundred dollars might be in the ball park depending on the labor charges and if you received the best plug and wire set. To answer your question about the catalytic converter, it can not be fixed, it has to be replaced. The price could range any where from $125 to $350 dollars with labor.
when i came back 3 hours later to pick up my car, the bill came out to be $200. He said he had changed all the wires and spark plugs.
To avoid having this happen to me again, does anyone know how much it costs to have a catalytic converter fixed?$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
Yes, it does sounds like you got burned, It would cost me around between 50 to 80 bucks for a tune up.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
I don't agree with the other on some cars it's a lot of work for a tune up and your car has a computer that needs to be checked and set and the wires are costly also.
Go to a muffler shop for your catalytic converter$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
$200 is a middle of the road amount for a tune up.
Remember you aren't just paying for parts!
If you figure most shops charge about $75/hour for labor, plus parts, tax, and any disposal fees. A tune up would take probably an hour to an hour and a half, depending on the car. Just like when you go to a Doctor, you aren't just paying for pills, you pay for the doctors time.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
plugs cost like 3-6 bucks a peice , then u add maybe 40 for wires... add $30 an hour for labor and there is where u get burnt!!! i never go to a shop unless it involves tools i do not have. umm with the cat... ive had a shop build me a full custom cat back exhaust for $175 , so a cat. repacement should be around 40-50 plus the cost of the new cat.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
You sure did! A Catalytic Converter used to cost between $125.00 and $150.00. They may have gone up by now though. Call and get estimates. I just got reamed for my riding mower.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
If you take your vehicle to a reputable shop, they can inspect your catalytic converter. Yeah, you can get a cheap cat conv, but may not be exactly what you need for your ride. If you go back with OEM, its gonna give you a heart attack on price. So your in a pickle . But it could be a number of things besides a cat conv, any number of sensors, pump, fuel filter, wiring, injectors, ect. But 200 bucks for wire and plug, seems kinda high to me.$200 for a tune up...did i get ripped off?
Well, 200 hundred dollars might be in the ball park depending on the labor charges and if you received the best plug and wire set. To answer your question about the catalytic converter, it can not be fixed, it has to be replaced. The price could range any where from $125 to $350 dollars with labor.
`84 Chevy Caprice Spark plugs...?
My friend had the roder and spark plugs changed about a week ago, and now the car isn't working at all - We fixed most of it, but now the mechanic says it's losing power quickly, probably because the spark plugs aren't connected to the roder correctly.
What I'm trying to find out is how do I find out if each wire connected to the spark plug is correctly connected to the roder...? I'm not sure at all.`84 Chevy Caprice Spark plugs...?
First of all its called the rotor. if you changed the rotor you also should have changed the cap since the rotor is under the cap. make sure the timing order is correct. 1 cylinder is marked on the cap and the is the front spark plug on the driver side. the firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. the rotor spins in a clockwise manner. so the next plug to fire is 8 which is far rear plug on passenger side. so the right side is odd 1357 and the left is 2468. it is common when doing what you did to sometimes get the order wrong when reasembling the parts. make sure the plugs are also in tight and not crossthreaded. this is tough on the left side if you have airconditioning so take your time. then last the plug wire connection will snap into place when it is a good connection.hope this helps. also a chilton maual will help it has pictures of what youre trying to figure out. its only about 10 bucks.`84 Chevy Caprice Spark plugs...?
just push on the wires down on the DISTRIBUTOR CAP and push in, on the SPARK PLUG WIRES. if you are loosing power, check to be sure that the vacuum hose is connected to the air cleaner snorkel. there is a valve in there,and if it is closed, the engine will starve it self for air,and gradually loose all it power.get time from datetime livejournal not working
What I'm trying to find out is how do I find out if each wire connected to the spark plug is correctly connected to the roder...? I'm not sure at all.`84 Chevy Caprice Spark plugs...?
First of all its called the rotor. if you changed the rotor you also should have changed the cap since the rotor is under the cap. make sure the timing order is correct. 1 cylinder is marked on the cap and the is the front spark plug on the driver side. the firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. the rotor spins in a clockwise manner. so the next plug to fire is 8 which is far rear plug on passenger side. so the right side is odd 1357 and the left is 2468. it is common when doing what you did to sometimes get the order wrong when reasembling the parts. make sure the plugs are also in tight and not crossthreaded. this is tough on the left side if you have airconditioning so take your time. then last the plug wire connection will snap into place when it is a good connection.hope this helps. also a chilton maual will help it has pictures of what youre trying to figure out. its only about 10 bucks.`84 Chevy Caprice Spark plugs...?
just push on the wires down on the DISTRIBUTOR CAP and push in, on the SPARK PLUG WIRES. if you are loosing power, check to be sure that the vacuum hose is connected to the air cleaner snorkel. there is a valve in there,and if it is closed, the engine will starve it self for air,and gradually loose all it power.
How to test a coil pack?
I know that I can put a spark plug into the ends of the wires and see if there is a spark, my question is can I do all of this while the engine is running? Will I get shocked? Can this cause problems with gas accumulating in the cylinders? Will I mess up my catalytic converter? I have a bad misfire and I have already changed out the plugs and wires to no avail. Any advice?How to test a coil pack?
Unless you have the proper tools then no it is not advisable to ply with the HT leads while the car is running.
What make, year and model car have you got?How to test a coil pack?
I have already tested my coil pack by just pulling the leads off the pack while it was running. I noticed a spark on all of them so I know my coil pack is working fine. Your answer is not really an answer I am only sorry I didn't vote it out in time, I have been so busy.
what about the module
driving to workshopHow to test a coil pack?
to check the coilpack ..just get a test light ground it some where on the block then press the the test light on the head of each wire at the coilpack.. you should hear a change in the way the car idles..if you get to one of the wires and the idle does not change.. that is the cylinder that is giving you the problem.but it could be dead cylinder and not the coil packHow to test a coil pack?
Pull the end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug (leave it attached at the coil pack). Use a %26quot;safety%26quot; screwdriver, one with a rubber or plastic handle cover. DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL PART OF THE SCREWDRIVER!! Put the screwdriver in the unattached end of the plug wire, and hold the rest of the screwdriver near a metal surface. Have a friend crank the engine over and see if sparks jump from the screwdriver and the metal it's close to. Yellow sparks may mean a weak coil pack, or a bad plug wire. Blue sparks should mean everything is ok... I'ts a little risky (getting shocked), but as long as you don't touch the metal part of the screwdriver, you should be fine.How to test a coil pack?
make sure you choose the correct screw driver. THere is a different voltage rating for every driver even though its protected by rubber. If the insulation is not good. You still will get a nasty shock.
:)
Unless you have the proper tools then no it is not advisable to ply with the HT leads while the car is running.
What make, year and model car have you got?How to test a coil pack?
I have already tested my coil pack by just pulling the leads off the pack while it was running. I noticed a spark on all of them so I know my coil pack is working fine. Your answer is not really an answer I am only sorry I didn't vote it out in time, I have been so busy.
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How to test a coil pack?what about the module
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How to test a coil pack?driving to workshopHow to test a coil pack?
to check the coilpack ..just get a test light ground it some where on the block then press the the test light on the head of each wire at the coilpack.. you should hear a change in the way the car idles..if you get to one of the wires and the idle does not change.. that is the cylinder that is giving you the problem.but it could be dead cylinder and not the coil packHow to test a coil pack?
Pull the end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug (leave it attached at the coil pack). Use a %26quot;safety%26quot; screwdriver, one with a rubber or plastic handle cover. DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL PART OF THE SCREWDRIVER!! Put the screwdriver in the unattached end of the plug wire, and hold the rest of the screwdriver near a metal surface. Have a friend crank the engine over and see if sparks jump from the screwdriver and the metal it's close to. Yellow sparks may mean a weak coil pack, or a bad plug wire. Blue sparks should mean everything is ok... I'ts a little risky (getting shocked), but as long as you don't touch the metal part of the screwdriver, you should be fine.How to test a coil pack?
make sure you choose the correct screw driver. THere is a different voltage rating for every driver even though its protected by rubber. If the insulation is not good. You still will get a nasty shock.
:)
Step be step instructins?
How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?
i have a 90 ford probe and it tries to crank over just wont start i changed the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, and ignition coil. and it still wont start. how do u tell if the timing is bad? do you have any other suggestions?How do you know if timing is bad on a 90 ford probe?
The Probes distributors were notorious for going bad, I'd start there and have it checked out!
The Probes distributors were notorious for going bad, I'd start there and have it checked out!
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora?
Just was wondering how invoolved it is to change the spark plugs and wires in this car. Mechanic said I am running on only 3 of 8 cylinders.1995 Oldsmobile Aurora?
If you could get to the four in the back then you should be able to do it yourself with the right tools, I'm surprised the car actually drives with only 3 cylinders
If you could get to the four in the back then you should be able to do it yourself with the right tools, I'm surprised the car actually drives with only 3 cylinders
How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Ok, so my Honda started Idling when I'm on a stop light. I changed spark plugs and wires. Still did it.
Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.client side script hair cut styles
Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.
01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
how hard is it to change out the spark plug wires
and what are some good performance spark plugs
autolite?01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
Ahhh i is a witch with a B to change the sprak plugs and wires because someof themare so hard to get too , my hubby ripped his hand open trying to get the last few done . I take it and pay some one to change them now because of it being so hard to do , and it is all because of how they re placed , and you have to stick your hand way down the side ...
Auto Lite is a good brand , but I use Bosch .01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
They are not too hard to change, it just takes time.. the back three are the hard ones but you can do it by touch.... its easier than it looks... i would stay away from autolite plugs and stick with GM plugs, ACDelco, from my experience ACDelco runs the best in GM vehicles01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
Stick with the AC DELCO they last longer. Oh and have you replaced the intake gasket yet? If not- then be ready cause that is going to go. MAF-fuel filter-air filter-O2 perhaps-and the ignition module will also be needing attention. $300 parts and $400 in labor, unless you do it.
and what are some good performance spark plugs
autolite?01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
Ahhh i is a witch with a B to change the sprak plugs and wires because someof themare so hard to get too , my hubby ripped his hand open trying to get the last few done . I take it and pay some one to change them now because of it being so hard to do , and it is all because of how they re placed , and you have to stick your hand way down the side ...
Auto Lite is a good brand , but I use Bosch .01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
They are not too hard to change, it just takes time.. the back three are the hard ones but you can do it by touch.... its easier than it looks... i would stay away from autolite plugs and stick with GM plugs, ACDelco, from my experience ACDelco runs the best in GM vehicles01 Pontiac grand prix GT?
Stick with the AC DELCO they last longer. Oh and have you replaced the intake gasket yet? If not- then be ready cause that is going to go. MAF-fuel filter-air filter-O2 perhaps-and the ignition module will also be needing attention. $300 parts and $400 in labor, unless you do it.
HOW TO CHECK LOW RPM'S ON A MERCRUISER 8'1 HORIZON?
MY ENGINE SHOULD TURN 4,000 R.P.M.%26quot;S........WAS RUNNING GREAT AND SUDDENLY CUT TO 2600.....MY MECHANIC PUT HIS COMPUTER ON IT AND ALL LOOKED GOOD....DID COMPRESSION %26amp; FUEL PRESSURE TEST AND GOOD.....CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, FUEL FILTER AND PLUG WIRES...NOW GET 3100 RPM'S......WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST? THANKS HERBHOW TO CHECK LOW RPM%26039;S ON A MERCRUISER 8%26039;1 HORIZON?
First, your 8.1 should turn a little higher rpms (4200-4600 WOT). Think about prop modifications. Does the engine run smooth at 3100, or does it have a stutter? Do you have a water separating filter? Make sure it is a 10 micron filter, not a 21, you may have a fuel volume problem. If the CDS scan came back clean, Your tech might try running the boat under load, and recording any sticky faults. Too many possibilities here, can you give some more info on the symptoms?HOW TO CHECK LOW RPM%26039;S ON A MERCRUISER 8%26039;1 HORIZON?
4000 rpm's is not up to specs that engine should turn between 44 an 48 oo rpm's, have u checked the bottom ? barnacles and such, and bad fuel ?? should not have to hook a computer to ta=hat engine as you already should have one on your dash with the Horizon packageHOW TO CHECK LOW RPM%26039;S ON A MERCRUISER 8%26039;1 HORIZON?
you need to check motor
First, your 8.1 should turn a little higher rpms (4200-4600 WOT). Think about prop modifications. Does the engine run smooth at 3100, or does it have a stutter? Do you have a water separating filter? Make sure it is a 10 micron filter, not a 21, you may have a fuel volume problem. If the CDS scan came back clean, Your tech might try running the boat under load, and recording any sticky faults. Too many possibilities here, can you give some more info on the symptoms?HOW TO CHECK LOW RPM%26039;S ON A MERCRUISER 8%26039;1 HORIZON?
4000 rpm's is not up to specs that engine should turn between 44 an 48 oo rpm's, have u checked the bottom ? barnacles and such, and bad fuel ?? should not have to hook a computer to ta=hat engine as you already should have one on your dash with the Horizon packageHOW TO CHECK LOW RPM%26039;S ON A MERCRUISER 8%26039;1 HORIZON?
you need to check motor
Auto Maintenance Questions?
So I have an 02 Saturn L300. It has 60,000 miles on it. I have always changed the oil every 3-4000 miles. I just recently had all new tires put on as well as the coolant flushed (around 55,000 miles I had this done). I also replaced the air filter around 10,000 miles ago. My questions is: I'm planning on going on 3800 mile trip in 2 months, what kind of maintenance should I have done prior to going? Other than the things I just listed, no other kind of maintenance has been performed. The other question is: how many miles usually until you change the spark plugs and wires? Should both the plugs and wires be changed? What else should I do? What is a reasonable cost for everything? Thanks!Auto Maintenance Questions?
When it comes to changing plugs %26amp; wires, the miles are not the only consideration. What kind of miles, what kind of driving. anyway, My gut instinct is to change to plugs %26amp; wires a few days before the trip. Better safe than sorry. Imagine, half way through the trip, and coming up with a dead short or something. Good Luck.Auto Maintenance Questions?
i would change the plugs, if you never have ever changed them
wires you dont need to
fuel filter i would suggest
oil/filter change before you goAuto Maintenance Questions?
i would do transmission filter. and yes for the price of new plugs and wires you will probably benefit in gas mileage in the long run. plus it will give you peace of mind wile your on that 3800 mile trip. good luck
When it comes to changing plugs %26amp; wires, the miles are not the only consideration. What kind of miles, what kind of driving. anyway, My gut instinct is to change to plugs %26amp; wires a few days before the trip. Better safe than sorry. Imagine, half way through the trip, and coming up with a dead short or something. Good Luck.Auto Maintenance Questions?
i would change the plugs, if you never have ever changed them
wires you dont need to
fuel filter i would suggest
oil/filter change before you goAuto Maintenance Questions?
i would do transmission filter. and yes for the price of new plugs and wires you will probably benefit in gas mileage in the long run. plus it will give you peace of mind wile your on that 3800 mile trip. good luck
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough in drive and reverse but idles fine in park and neutral. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, and the coil pack. I just recently had my transmission serviced (flushed and refilled), my throttle body cleaned, my oil changed, my fuel filter and pump replaced, PCV valve replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned. I have check for error codes but none were found. I did a cylinder pressure test on each cylinder to check for a cracked head or gasket, all pressures where in the normal range and the same for all four cylinders. There is no signs or sounds of a vacuum hose leak. I have put A LOT of money into solving this problem but none of the above have worked. What else could be causing it to idle rough only in drive and reverse? Oh yeah my idling RPMs are around 600. Way to low!My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
the only thing you didn't mention that you haven't checked the timing on it ,if it gets one notch out of time that will cause the problem your having,you may also want to check and make sure the converter isn't causing this too happen,if you have no trouble codes coming from the computer this doesn't still mean that its not a bad sensor,sometimes a bad tps sensor or one that isn't registering right will cause this to happen,you also nee to run a fuel pump pressure test on it to verify the exact amount of fuel pressure its running when it does like that,it may be the pump causing this too happen also,good luck.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
thanks,hope you find whats causing it to do that,good luck.
trade it in for a civicMy 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
Check for a vacuum leak at the brake booster.
the only thing you didn't mention that you haven't checked the timing on it ,if it gets one notch out of time that will cause the problem your having,you may also want to check and make sure the converter isn't causing this too happen,if you have no trouble codes coming from the computer this doesn't still mean that its not a bad sensor,sometimes a bad tps sensor or one that isn't registering right will cause this to happen,you also nee to run a fuel pump pressure test on it to verify the exact amount of fuel pressure its running when it does like that,it may be the pump causing this too happen also,good luck.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
thanks,hope you find whats causing it to do that,good luck.
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My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?trade it in for a civicMy 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
Check for a vacuum leak at the brake booster.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough in drive and reverse but idles fine in park and neutral. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, and the coil pack. I just recently had my transmission serviced (flushed and refilled), my throttle body cleaned, my oil changed, my fuel filter and pump replaced, PCV valve replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned. I have check for error codes but none were found. I did a cylinder pressure test on each cylinder to check for a cracked head or gasket, all pressures where in the normal range and the same for all four cylinders. There are no signs or sounds of a vacuum hose leak. I have noticed that it only idles rough when the engine is at normal temp (warm). When I first start it and drive a minute or two and stop, it idles normal. I have checked the timing and it seems to be correct. I have also tested the throttle position sensor and it also seems to be working correctly. I have put A LOT of money into solving this problem but none of the above worked. What else could be causing it to idle rough only in drive and reverse? Oh yeah my idling RPMs are around 600. Way to low!My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
a can of throttle body cleaner sprayed while someone holds your gas pedal down while running.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
Did any of the old spark plugs look different then the other 3. If one looked oily it could be missing on that cylinder. If one looked white it could be leaking anti freeze into that cylinder. I have seen new spark plugs be bad. Try pulling one spark plug wire off one at a time to see if it makes the engine run worse. If one of them doesn't make it get any worse, that is the cylinder that it is missing on. Please I hope you are using champion spark plugs.give to atheist give to atheist
a can of throttle body cleaner sprayed while someone holds your gas pedal down while running.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
Did any of the old spark plugs look different then the other 3. If one looked oily it could be missing on that cylinder. If one looked white it could be leaking anti freeze into that cylinder. I have seen new spark plugs be bad. Try pulling one spark plug wire off one at a time to see if it makes the engine run worse. If one of them doesn't make it get any worse, that is the cylinder that it is missing on. Please I hope you are using champion spark plugs.
94 Ford Taurus Randomly doesn't start but its very weird 5 minutes later it will...?
I have a 94 Ford Taurus this problem is the second time its happened to me Im stumped so Im hoping a knowledgable mechanic can enlighten me. Ok so I go to start my car and randomly it just has no power no cranking nothing it initially would make me think the batteries dead. Then after trying for a few minutes it just starts perfect no problems at all and no partial cranks its eith dead or its going to start perfect. This is the 2nd time after a few minutes of absolutley no cranking it just starts with no problem. Now I have no lights on my dash like battery light or anything and I've checked the belt on the alternator its secure and like I said the battery light is not on and I don't think I left anything on either of the times. What could this possibly be? Im thinking maybe I need to change the spark plugs but I mean if it were them it wouldn't just be dead when trying wouldn't it crank atleast slightly? Could it be spark plug wires? Basically anything that you think this could possibly be please help because now Im afraid my car will do this again when I least need it to. I just can't understand how a car goes from not turning on at like it has a dead battery then it just starts perfect after a few minutes and I don't think its the battery the lights not on. 94 Ford Taurus Randomly doesn%26039;t start but its very weird 5 minutes later it will...?
It could be a loose wire, bad solenoid, or a bad switch, since it won't even crank, and then will. (have had similar problems on older vehicles.)
In order, I would check for loose connection, bad solenoid, and last, a bad switch
If it does not crank, changing the plugs won't help.
It could be a loose wire, bad solenoid, or a bad switch, since it won't even crank, and then will. (have had similar problems on older vehicles.)
In order, I would check for loose connection, bad solenoid, and last, a bad switch
If it does not crank, changing the plugs won't help.
What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
I have a 1984 Ford F-150 truck with a 302 V8 engine in it. 5.0L.
Anyway, how do I know if i need new spark plugs? I changed the distributor cap and rotor pin because they were all messed up but the sparks and wires i am not sure about. I have the plugs now but I dont want to change them if they dont need it. What will the truck do if the sparks in it are bad?What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
it will be kind of hard to start,and will run a little sluggish,it may also loose power a lot,and not like going over hills real good,it will run weak all the time,usually when an engine is right they start up real fast,and run extremely good,id at least check the plugs in it to see if they was gaped right,if the gap gets too large in them they will use a lot more gas,good luck on it.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Hi raven,
Just take out the spark plug and see the condition and follwow the link..which will give out a good idea about the aprk oplug condition.To check a sparkplug and wire condition just pull out a Splug and connected to the connetor and get it touch with a earth like engine block or any unpainted nut and ask your helper to crank the engine ,the sparkplug should give out a blue spark.if it is yellow the parkplug may be bad.
In your case since it is a 1984 vehicle you better change the spark plug wires and spark plugs..which will make a complete tuned vehicle.All the best.
regards,
Nataraj
BahrainWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Change them now. You have already done 1/3 of a tune up already. You may find them to look bad when you remove them.
Rough running and bad gas mileage and horse power lose are some symptoms.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Misfire (miss), poor performance, bad gas mileage, black smoke on occasions... But for a ford owner, none of this is new.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
they should look pretty clean, normal. not worn, melted, electrode or any part of the plug dammaged. but most cars will have a carbon deposits on them.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
It's not that difficult, go ahead and do it one day when you are bored.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
change them every 10-15 k miles regardless . You could pull one out and look at it . Usual symptoms could be rough idle, poor gas mileage , poor acceleration ,and poor throttle response .etcWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Put the new spark plugs in the truck if you have them already, you may need wires too. Usually when you have problems with spark plugs or any other part of the electrical firing system, the car will lose power when put under a load ( going up hill, etc. )What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
If they have been in for more than 10000 kms just change em with your leads.You will find it will run better and get a little bit better fuel milage.......But if you wanna check em,pull the plugs out one by one and see if they have a correct gap between the tip and the diode...Normally there is a plate under the bonnet specifieng the gap...Check to make sure the plug sint melted or all black.It should be a greyish brownish colour.
Anyway, how do I know if i need new spark plugs? I changed the distributor cap and rotor pin because they were all messed up but the sparks and wires i am not sure about. I have the plugs now but I dont want to change them if they dont need it. What will the truck do if the sparks in it are bad?What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
it will be kind of hard to start,and will run a little sluggish,it may also loose power a lot,and not like going over hills real good,it will run weak all the time,usually when an engine is right they start up real fast,and run extremely good,id at least check the plugs in it to see if they was gaped right,if the gap gets too large in them they will use a lot more gas,good luck on it.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Hi raven,
Just take out the spark plug and see the condition and follwow the link..which will give out a good idea about the aprk oplug condition.To check a sparkplug and wire condition just pull out a Splug and connected to the connetor and get it touch with a earth like engine block or any unpainted nut and ask your helper to crank the engine ,the sparkplug should give out a blue spark.if it is yellow the parkplug may be bad.
In your case since it is a 1984 vehicle you better change the spark plug wires and spark plugs..which will make a complete tuned vehicle.All the best.
regards,
Nataraj
BahrainWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Change them now. You have already done 1/3 of a tune up already. You may find them to look bad when you remove them.
Rough running and bad gas mileage and horse power lose are some symptoms.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Misfire (miss), poor performance, bad gas mileage, black smoke on occasions... But for a ford owner, none of this is new.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
they should look pretty clean, normal. not worn, melted, electrode or any part of the plug dammaged. but most cars will have a carbon deposits on them.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
It's not that difficult, go ahead and do it one day when you are bored.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
change them every 10-15 k miles regardless . You could pull one out and look at it . Usual symptoms could be rough idle, poor gas mileage , poor acceleration ,and poor throttle response .etcWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Put the new spark plugs in the truck if you have them already, you may need wires too. Usually when you have problems with spark plugs or any other part of the electrical firing system, the car will lose power when put under a load ( going up hill, etc. )What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
If they have been in for more than 10000 kms just change em with your leads.You will find it will run better and get a little bit better fuel milage.......But if you wanna check em,pull the plugs out one by one and see if they have a correct gap between the tip and the diode...Normally there is a plate under the bonnet specifieng the gap...Check to make sure the plug sint melted or all black.It should be a greyish brownish colour.
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